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Oedolgae Submitted on October 28th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeju-Do City: Seogwipo
Park: n/a Rating: 5.7 - 5.11 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 12003 Photos: 10 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Oedolgae, pronounced "Wheedle-gay"-- sort of, is a freestanding pillar of many legends and a popular tourist attraction, and so it can't be climbed on. Oedolgae was created by volcanic eruption 1.5 million years ago. "It is called "sea stack" because it was formed by continual wave erosion." Still, the basalt cliffs around Oedolgae that overlook a "colbalt blue" sea are reason enough to pack a rope when you visit Jeju!

A few bolts and anchors are on the top of the cliff where tourist pose for photos. You can set up an anchor on top and rappel/lower, walk down the scrambly fisherman's route to the bottom (follow the fisherman down the large steps slightly left if you're standing with your back to Oedolgae from the cliff that juts towards it). . . sport, trad or toprope out. You'll become a tourist attraction in your own right. Smile

There are cracks that can be TRed (no fixed gear) right of the tree at the "corner". It might help to decend first to scope where these are. Under the tree are L-R, (all locations from the perspective of clifftop looking out to sea) are an 11c and 11a, going left the next cluster 11b/9 depends on your exit, 10 and 8 (starts a bit higher). Next is a 10d (bolted crack) with a 10c variation (unbolted crack). Closer to Oedolgae and on the other side of the walk down are an 11a and 2 5.7s. You can climb in between these listed and bolted climbs, creating your own anchors. There are two nice cracks just R of the walk down that can be done in this fashion.

All climbs are 10-20 meters.

City busses go there and signs in Sogwipo lead the way to Oedolgae. . . there's a boardwalk to the rocks. Walk to the edge of the clif and look for bolts. One website offers the following: Take a bus to Jungmun or take a bus from Jeju to Seogwipo and transfer to Gangjeong at Jungmun middle school and get off at Daepodong. It is just 10 minutes on foot. If you drive, park in the area labled in English "Free Parking" or you'll be charged W800 an hour.

Safety Concerns
Some chopped bolts, but these are easily assessed from the top. Plenty of tourists walking near the anchors and touching them, stepping over them. Patience to explain what they are might be necessary

Gear to Bring
There was one tree and a few boulders on top that could be slung for anchors. . . but even if you belay from the top, curious onlookers may inspect your anchors a little too closely. Some bolt anchors, about half of them on top of the rock, so long slings recommended. A few chopped/missing hangers, and one dodgy looking pink one, a few rusty and many solid shiny looking bolts. An abundance of cracks, every size, shape and slope for leading and setting anchors; anything you bring could be used! A 50m rope is adequate, and the most bolts on a single climb is 10.

Additional Comments
You will make dozens of Korean home pages should you choose to climb here. Smile and be polite as you can while instilling the urgency of not touching/tripping over your anchors. Early morning sees fewer toruists. The top gets sun, and the climbs/bottom are mostly shady, though this varies as the cliff curvse a bit. Vendors, food, restrooms, camping near the parking lot. Development and "businesses that pollute the environment" were kept away from this site puroposefully, and the shoreline is pristine, for the ROK.

Comment added by ricardo on November 8th, 2005
if you scramble down the fisherman's route and work from the base you may find limited anchor opportunities when you top out. be prepared for this.
not surprisingly, the tourists are very friendly...it won't take much to persuade one to take your camera to a better vantage point to take some shots. they are also very encouraging. a round of applause when topping out is typical. it can really make that 5.7 feel like a 5.10!
camping: we were told from 'Info' at city hall that there is camping. we asked the market and they pointed to a patch of grass between the parking lot and a restaurant. a better place is to head down from the parking lot towards the viewing area; take the left path when it splits and camping will be on your left.

Comment added by DavidPowell on September 21st, 2012
There is a more recently bolted line that's not on the route map here. From the left, after 11c, 11a there's a 5.8ish climb that has anchor bolts. Quite the pain to clean though, there's no way to top out. You can have a belayer anchor to the tree and then traverse over (expect a crowd).

Comment added by Parlog24 on February 14th, 2021
As of February 2021, all anchor bolts at Oedolgae, as far as we could tell, are chopped. We tried to verify whether the bolts on the face had been chopped too but we couldn't. Comments and pictures on the Crag website show that all bolts were there as recently as May 2018. Doesn't seem like anyone has posted about this yet so we figured we would let everyone know. Assuming climbing is still allowed, you could easily set up a trad anchor and top rope some stuff or lead the lines on gear. Pretty disappointing. We were really looking forward to climbing here. If anyone has any information on what happened we would love to know. Thanks.

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