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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Maisan Submitted on April 18th, 2004 by Eric Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jeonju
Park: Maisan Park Rating: 5.8 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 12370 Photos: 29 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 3 Image(s) - Add Images

Conglomerate is the only way to describe this face. Mostly baseball size stones to microwave size stones stuck together by some glue. Most of the climbs are super juggy, similar to large holds you might find on a beginner wall at a climbing gym. A few of the harder routes have the big holds but they are sloppy and smooth. The bolts look good but a few of the anchors could be replaced. A 60 meter rope is recommended but not completely necessary. At least a dozen quickdraws. The climbs are really well protected and I don't think it would be a good idea to take more than a 1 meter fall on this kind of rock.

There are roughly 15-20 routes, mostly in the 5.9 range. As you move further to left on the wall the climbs get more challenging.

There are a couple multi-pitch climbs.

Go to Maisan National Park. If you go to the main entrance, just outside of Jinan, you will have to hike the trail that goes between the "Horse Ears" mountains. As you start coming down the back side you will see a sign pointing to a trail on the right hand side of the road. (See attatched photo) If you pass a small lake, you've gone too far.

If you are coming from the smaller entrance of Maisan National Park, follow the road up past the small lake. Immediately after the lake you will see a sign pointing into the woods.

Follow the trail into the woods and you will see another sign pointing up the hill. Follow that to the face of the wall.

The hike in from the small entrance is about 30 minutes, its longer from the main entrance.

Safety Concerns
FALLING ROCK is very common. A helmut should be worn by the belayer and even just standing around. Also, if you do any of the multi-pitch climbs, the rock gets very brittle above the first pitch so the follower and the people on the ground should be careful.

Gear to Bring
A 60 meter rope and a dozen draws should do. Definitely bring a helmut!

Additional Comments
You should bring what you need because it takes time (about 20 minutes) to get to any of the stores in the park. It's mostly in the sun all day.

Bring a helmut!

Comment added by antepater on April 26th, 2004
I agree. Helmet, Helmet, Helmet!!! And most definitley don't fall. I could chip one of these bolts out with a rock. The place is very cool, fun, scenic and a great time. Having said that here are my notes:
It looks like someone just mixed river rocks with sand and through into a large pile. Only the wieght of this mountain is holding it together.
But I am american and anything less than bomber granite always makes me want to trad over trusting the bolts. I've pulled them out of desert sandstone, limestone and other soft rock.
Possible to trad climb to the top but it eats up the gear, 2 pieces of pro per meter.
If it looks bad it probably is.
Enjoy the peacefulness and lack of others at Maisan, very unique rock!

Comment added by Eric on April 26th, 2004
I have fallen here before, my handhold blew off and fell the distance of the bolt spacing. I didn't have problems with the bolt and I think, if you clip all the bolts, you aren't going to fall far enough to really strain the bolts. Fortunately whoever bolted here put them close together.

The wall will take a LOT of gear but I would be reluctant to put any in. Those small rocks are just ready to be popped out.

Got any pics from your trip?

Comment added by robb on May 3rd, 2005
love the place! don't forget to stop for some BBQ on the way out!

Comment added by skinsk on June 1st, 2005
Sorry, either my computer or I are unable to produce Korean text, so I can't give the names (at this time), but the grades for the routes at Albawi--the area listed here for Maisan-- are, left to right: 1-4:5.9, 5:10.a, 6: 5.10b, 7:5.10c, 8-10: 5.10b, 11-12: 5.10a, 13-20: 5.9.
No second or third pitch info was listed; in the USA we's assume this meant the route was at pitch 1 grade or easier. . . assumptions can be hazardous and I'd welcome additional input. All route info is from a Korean guidebook. I hope to contact the author for permission to scan and post topos.

Comment added by Baek Su on June 2nd, 2005
I have the route map for this crag, if you want it PM me. You are right about the routes and the second and third pitches are not safe at all. the bolts and anchor were not changed the last time I was there and the loose rock was killer!!! But this place is an awesome place to train, have some fun and the temple here is beautiful. The BBQ does kick ***!!!!!

Comment added by firedawgUSAF on April 30th, 2006
Sign to the trail is no longer there. Just so you know.

Comment added by ricardo on May 1st, 2006
Edit to the directions stated above?

If you are coming from the smaller entrance of Maisan National Park, follow the road up past the small lake. Immediately after the lake you will see a trail heading into the woods on the left.

Follow the trail into the woods; there will be a small trail to the right just after a small footbridge...don't take it! Hike on another .5k and look for another trail on your right. It will immediately go up a small ridge and continue to the crag.

Comment added by ricardo on May 1st, 2006
the 'edit' in my above comment is supposed to be a statement not a question.

warning: the 10b and 10c require a 60m rope and 14 draws (2 for anchor)!

Comment added by skinsk on June 19th, 2006
For hard men and women who like their pebbles steep, to the right of "Maisan" (Al Bawi) check out Opera House (you have to walk back to the main trail). . . one "easy" climb, a couple of 11's and some 12-13s. . . more routes are popping up. . .

Comment added by skinsk on June 2nd, 2010
As of 05/2010 all of Maisan Provincial Park has been declared by county officials as "off limits" to climbing. Clubs removed anchors and bolts at Opera House and the annex; as of today, gear was still at Albawi. Park officials told us and discussed the closures. Walking in with gear and helmets obvious tipped us off. The office was prepared with info on other areas you could go climbing near-by.

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