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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Dae Ryuk Bong Submitted on April 17th, 2004 by Eric Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Busan
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 8422 Photos: 17 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 4 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
There are about 30 really fun climbs here. Not sure what the rock is but it kind of looks like granite. Anyway, most of the climbs are very facey with lots of small crimpers and flakes. A few of the routes are pretty long, but a 50 meter rope will get you to the top of most of them. The bolts and anchors are pretty good.


Directions
Dae Ryuk Bong is right in the middle of Busan on Geum Jeong Mountain. From Busan train station, take the subway(orange line) toward Nopo Dong. Get off at On Cheon Jang. Across the street from On Cheon Jang subway station there is a pedestrian bridge. Go over the bridge. At the bottom look for bus number 203 heading toward Sik Mul Won. Take that bus and get off at the second main stop up the mountain. You should be getting off the bus at the top and if the bus starts to go down the backside of the mountain, you've gone too far.

After you get off the bus, look for the trail on the other side of the road that heads into the woods. You might be able to see the wall from the road depending on the foliage. Take the trail in about 5-10 minutes and you will be there.


Safety Concerns
Aside from standard safety concerns, I think this place is pretty safe.


Gear to Bring
A set of 12 quickdraws and a 50 meter rope ought to do it. You shouldn't need much more unless you miss placing gear and want to brush up on those skills.


Additional Comments
There is running water at the base of the climbs coming from a hose. There are a few camping areas up and to the right of the climbing wall. I have seen Koreans have food delivered from the stalls that sell food where you get off the bus. I guess if your Korean is good enough you could do this, too.

This place is a ton of fun, though limited for beginners. Lots of good challenging 5.10s and 5.11s!



Comment added by mp31bravo on September 6th, 2005
Eric is right on the money. This place rocks! Great for people new to the sport. Easy to find also, just follow the old wall trail for 5 minutes. If it gets crowded, have fun trying to park your car. Bus 203 is your best bet or you can walk 4.4 km up the road from the greenhouse down on the main road. Lots of boulders, too.

Comment added by Eric on September 6th, 2005
Thanks for the fresh photos. I got tired of looking at myself.

Comment added by mp31bravo on September 19th, 2005
I went here today, the day after Chuseok. It was crowded! All the clubs in the area decided to go to this place today. Anyway, I was invited to climb every ten minutes and everyone was absolutely polite and kind. They even wanted me to drink Mokoli afterwards. How can the Koreans be so nice one on one and yet so terrible once behind the wheel of car! The funny thing is, when asked (Yes, I can speak Korean) they all agree with me about it! One guy said that it was lucky Korea doesn't have individual ownership of guns, because there would probably be street gunfights like the old West..... If you get the chance, come here. It's not to big, but it's worth the day trip. KOTR members can crash at my apartment anytime!

Comment added by mebrauns on April 28th, 2007
these climbs are well bolted and worth exploring. we found 12 not 30 sport routes. When you exit off bus #203, walk the hiking trail farthest away from the huge trail board. There are three visible trails and walking down the proper trail can save precious daylight. also, one should be weary of wild bus rides.. suggestion: ride this bus without a full stomach, u may be thankful when leaving it without dropping an unwanted souvenir for other passengers to smell. we spent a day climbing w/ lovely koreans who spoke little to no english; however, their hospitality earned us free food, drink, and preset TR (top rope) routes on a slippery, wet rock.

Comment added by gwalinor on September 10th, 2007
was up here saturday and sunday. quick add on to the directions: always stick to the right hand branches once you are on the trail, its faster and easier.

And there are definitely more than 12 climbs. the area is divided into 2, almost three areas: lower, upper, and around the corner of the upper area.

one fun feature not yet mentioned is that the grade of a lot of the climbs is written at the bottom of the bolt line.

watch out on the 5:10 b/c in the upper area, one of the bolts is missing, and its right above a ledge. you can clip the bolt to the left if no one is climbing next to you, o rclimb straight to the next one. exposed, but not crazy hard

Comment added by choss monkey on November 5th, 2008
I have never seen this place without a crowd on the weekend. You're better off avoiding this place unless it's on a weekday. There's plenty of other places, I've even run across some that aren't listed on this site. Maybe I'll work on that later.

Comment added by choss monkey on May 20th, 2009
holy crap, i wrote this place off nearly a year ago because the weekend crowds suck. i still stand by that... weekends = shitty crowds, but i just went yesterday morning and this place is rad. there were a lot of climbs, whomever saw only 12 is retarded or blind. i'm guessing about 30 bolted lines with a little trad potential, and if go around the base and walk south 10 or 15 min there are about 100 trad lines that look unclimbed. some are are five star, but most are just average.

Comment added by alpingoat on May 9th, 2018
Climbed this crag in April 2018. This place seems to have loads of traffic and I could see it being extremely busy on weekends. We went on a weekday and it was not bad. We climbed mostly the lower wall where I found the routes were ok, but the rock super slick. Easy approach and well shaded.



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