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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
Byeongpung Rock Submitted on October 10th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Uiwang
Park: n/a Rating: 5.7 - 5.11 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 9993 Photos: 22 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

The name 병풍 means "folding screen" and refers to the many faces, corners and cracks. Face and crack climbing, and surprise of surprises, the cracks are not bolted!! Medium to large pro is best if you want to try the cracks, or you could walk up the trail (right) and set up a TR (slings needed for trees, to rap to some of the anchors, a few accessible from the top). The rock was pretty gneiss? and unique for Korea, though in places wet (but not slippery), and in places quite sharp! One piton and bolts (most of the routes date to the mid-80s) were placed in solid rock, but many bolts, including anchors, showed signs of corrosion. Anchors consisted of 2 bolts rigged with webbing "death triangles" with closed loops or hooks. Twelve climbs from 7 to 15 meters, L-R: 5.10a crack, 5.7 crack (both of these have anchors only), 5.9 face (2 bolts, but a great crimpy face!!), 5.7, 5.9 (part corner, a variety of tricks), 5.9 (crack, supplemented with 2 bolts), starting in the "raised" area a 5.9, a 5.11b, an unbolted 5.7 crack (that shares the anchor with a) 5.10 face, with 2 more 5.9 faces (sharing an anchor) on the right. There's bouldering on both sides of the climbing, with some fairly long traverses and some interesting problems.

The rock is super easy to find, on Mt. Obong in Uiwang, just behind Uiwang City Hall. Go to the back of the building, through the door in the tennis court, and follow the trail uphill about 5 minutes. There is plenty of space right by the rock, many benches and even a couple of "fitness park" pieces. . . it seemed a popular spot for picnicking and family hikes, but most people stayed only long enough to watch a climb or two, or boulder a bit.

Busses 1-1 from Sadang or Indeogwan Stations and 1-2 from Uiwang and Anyang Stations stop at city hall. It's a $2.50 taxi ride from Uiwang Station.

Safety Concerns
The usual caution should be used; some of the bolts were quite rusty. Use draws for toproping.

Gear to Bring
To lead the cracks, some medium to large gear(large hands, to fist, to liebacking). There are offwidth opportunities as well as easy trad leads; the 5.7 crack L is dirty in places!! The approach makes the idea of carrying so much for a few climbs more palatable. Small gear (nuts, aliens) might work in a few places, but not really where you need them. Ten draws and some long slings and a 50m rope will do the trick for sport climbing and/or TRing, some long webbing could be useful for the latter, especially as additional routes could be TRed by slinging trees on top.

Additional Comments
Byeongpung Rock is in the shade. Water and coffee/vending machines at City Hall (turned off this Sunday). . . and City Hall was a 20 minute or so walk from businesses. Bathrooms at CH were open and nice.

Beautiful rock and convenience makes this great (sub)urban cragging, though routes may be too easy for the truely hardmen and women, and there aren't many routes to begin with. A great place for people who want to practice easy trad leads, for people who hate long approaches, and for people living in the southern suburbs who have part of the day free.

Comment added by jhalpin on June 2nd, 2012
Two new routes have been added and some of the anchors have been improved. Here is an update on the routes:

Fourteen climbs from 7 to 15 meters, L-R:
1. 5.7 crack with nice stainless chain anchor with a ring.
2. 5.10a crack starting under overhang. Three bolts at top for anchoring.
3. 5.7 crack. The anchor has been moved up and has a nice stainless chain and ring.
4. 5.9 face. 2 bolts. The top bolt is really sketchy, but a great crimpy face!!. Nice stainless chain anchor with ring.
5. 5.7 crack just to the right of the face. One sketchy bolt. Webbing death triangle anchor.
6. 5.9 (part corner, a variety of tricks). Four bolts. #1 is ready to break and #3 is sketchy. Nice stainless chain anchor with a ring, but the bolts are sketchy. Thankfully it's backed up to a tree. There is a rope to access the anchor from above.
7. 5.9 crack, supplemented with 2 bolts. The top one is sketchy. Shares anchor with climb #6.
8. 5.1? (I couldn't climb it.) Ridge. 3 shiny new bolts and a shiny new wire death triangle anchor with no ring.
Starting in the "raised" area:
9. 5.9 face. 4 bolts. No anchor.
10. 5.11b. 4 bolts. Only #2 looks good. Webbing death triangle anchor.
11. Unbolted 5.7 crack (that shares the anchor with #12.
12. 5.10 face. 2 bolts. Webbing death triangle anchor.
13. 5.9 face. 1 piton, 3 bolts. All sketchy. Webbing death triangle anchor.
14. 5.9 face. 2 sketchy bolts. Sharing an anchor with climb #13.

Gear required: 6 draws and some lockers and slings for anchors.

Comment added by jhalpin on June 3rd, 2012
I rapped down and took a good look at the three anchors in the "raised" area. I wouldn't climb on them.

Climb #4 is the hardest 5.9 I've ever climbed. I'd say 5.10c.

Comment added by AFclimber on September 23rd, 2012
I was there today and to be honest, the place is a lot of fun for a couple of hours on the weekend. Be prepared though, the bolts are 75% OLD AND RUSTY! You need to know how to safely build your own using the many trees above. We took it upon ourselve to cut away the rotted webbing on 2 of the routes. The anchors were VERY unsafe and we didn't want an inexperienced climber getting hurt. The place has potential and we hope to clean up the rock a bit next time we head out there.

Comment added by jhalpin on January 16th, 2014
It was rebolted in the summer of 2013. Still be careful. I found some bolts that had not been tightened and a few things that were missed. The uppermost anchor is still attached to rusty old hangers that are now ready to break. Don't climb on it! Bring some long pieces of webbing and anchor to the trees above it. In the "raised area" on the right hand side a few bolts were missed because they look OK from a distance. They are not so OK when you go to clip into them. I would only top rope that section. It has lovely new anchors now. Climb #3, the 5.7 crack is now bolted.

Comment added by Trent on May 31st, 2016
Climbed here yesterday. No more death triangle wires or old bolts... at least I didn't see any. Great place to spend a day. Easy approach as well.

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