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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Kwanaksan Submitted on September 26th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Seoul
Park: n/a Rating: 5.6 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 6899 Photos: 6 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 4 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Short (8-12m) granite face climbs, slabs, and bolted cracks with small roofs, bulges! All 15 routes can be toproped with an easy scramble around left. Anchors are easily accessible from the top, though a few are further back, and the wires/rusted hooks on top are suspect. Bring a few long slings for toproping; scramble up to retrieve them!


Directions
The ultimate in Urban cragging! Take subway line 4 to Gwacheon Station (438) and use exit 7. Continue straight until the road ends (550m) at another street next to a river. Turn left and follow the river (there are numbered parking spaces) just past a nice bathroom by a noodle/coffee stall to the main trail up Kwanaksan. You can eat, drink and shop here. Pay the W300 fee at the ticket booth and head up the trail. Just past the point where the trail crosses the river on big blocky rocks, you'll see two white signs (one has the crag on it; look up and you might see climbers), cross the river and turn up the trail just behind the large concrete bench.


Safety Concerns
Some rusty hooks on wire "death" triangles, but you can just as easy retrieve gear and walk off. Leads are sporty; most have 2-3 bolts.


Gear to Bring
8 draws (less for TRing) and a 30m rope would work for every route there (one "unbolted" crack still goes if you clip the bolts on the nearest face); a 50 m rope allows you to climb 2 adjacent routes at once! Long slings are best for anchors. Good place to practice placing gear!


Additional Comments
The park itself can be busy, but the climbing area is off the main trail. While the city is visible from the top, Kwanaksan has a remote feel and you follow the river the whole way. The climbing area has 2 faces, both of which get sun. One side forms a theatre-like staging area. There are trees to sling hammocks and there's plenty of shade on the ground. L-R
5.10 crack, 5.7 layback, 5.12? roof(corner), 5.9 crack(corner), 5.10b, 5.11a, ?, 5.11b, 5.6 arete,
5.10, 5.10a, 5.10b roof, 5.10, 5.10b. 5.10. Plenty of potential for bouldering throughout the park.



Comment added by CHOI BAWI on May 3rd, 2006
DIRECTIONS: Follow the above and aforementioned directions until you have reached the front of the park entrance, which is directly behind the Gwacheon Middle School. From here, cross over either a cement bridge or a wooden bridge(there is a Buddhist temple exactly on the right side here), follow the road up roughly less than one hundred meters to the ticket booth. Continue up the main path past the cable car station--the path branches, so stay to the left along the creek on the large main and very well-beaten path. Continue up this path for roughly thirty minutes. On the way up, you will cross left over the creek bed on a wooden bridge/path, cross back over via stone blocks and continue up until you come across two narrow signs on the left. Directly behind these two signs and directly across the creek bed is the crag. Continue up the same path for less than fifty meters and cross left over the creek bed(there is cairn beside a tree, but it’s permanence is questionable) and onto an obvious goat path. The goat path leads under some cable lines, up and to the right and then back left in the obvious direction of the crag.
BETA: This crag is short enough in height where certain routes could be “high-balled”. There are only 2~5 bolts per route depending upon the route. There are six cracks that can be climbed using trad gear(an excellent spot for beginning trad climbers).

Comment added by pjbyrne14 on June 22nd, 2010
I am going to try and update the directions as some things have changed. Take the entrance behind Gwacheon Middle School and cross the bridge so that you are on the same side of the ashphalt road as the temple. Start walking uphill and you will pass the cable car station. Keep going and follow the rocky trail that just about everyone else is taking. Keep going for 20-30 minutes(You'll be walking on a new boardwalk for part of the hike.). Eventually, you will see two plastic signs on the trail. Just look across the creek and you should be able to see the crag. It'll be about 100m away.

Comment added by tbeirne on August 30th, 2015
Directions and description are on. The locals started showing around 9:00am on Sunday and saturated by 11:00am.

I had a good laugh when I reached across the roof and found mortar holding a pinch on the wall. There's also an L-bracket holding a flake! See if you can find it!



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