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Wimungongyeon Bawi Submitted on September 20th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jeonju
Park: Daedunsan Park Rating: 5.9 - 5.13 Style: Sport
Views: 5304 Photos: 3 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Description
Slab to overhanging. Good rock, decent bolts (typical triangle webbing anchors for the most part). Numerous routes. Wimungongyeon Bawi (on the main path from the small entrance) is labled in fading paint as are the climbs(8 on this face); the easiest, 10a, is labeled "Wimungong" (4 bolts). The first route here is 3 pitches, but the rest are 13 meters. A sport rack would suffice unless you're out to explore the area. A trad rack would really open up possibilities nearby. As you head uptrail towards the Chilseongbong Observation platform, you'll see more routes, several of which could be toproped. Next to/on the "cave" are more routes, to some of you maybe highball bouldering problems. I'll try to get better photos of the climbs!


Directions
Busses run from Jeonju, Gunsan, Iksan (infrequently) and Daejeon directly to Daedunsan. From Jeonju it's a straight shot up road 17. The quickest way to the climbs is to backtrack away from the main entrance (restaurants, etc) from the parking lot/bus stop until you see the small entrance. If you drive, there are pullouts right by this entrance. Head up the trail and look for Wimungongbawi on the trail on your right. If you reach the fork where the trail branches to Yongmun Cave or Janggun Rock, you've passed it.


Safety Concerns
There is some loose rock on some of the areas in the park, and some hollow flakes, but Wimungongyeon is right on the main path and seemed pretty clean. See photo for warning if you take the long and scenic route through the park!

There is a (partially scratched out) sign that says climbing in the park is forbidden, but I contacted the Wansan-gun park management and they had a staffer from Mountain magazine contact me and assure me that climbing is legal in the park. You'll see Koreans climbing and Mountain Magazine featured the park last month! (You can PM me if you'd like this e-mail forwarded).


Gear to Bring
A 50m rope and 10 draws will suffice for Winmungong; more to explore the rest of the park. Trad seems a definite possibility and a few pieces might boost confidence on the sportier routes.


Additional Comments
The park is in 3 provinces, but all the climbing is in Jeollabuk-do! Food and drink is available along the main trails (further from the climbing)and at the mountain hut, when it's open. Camping is available nearby and there is a portalet (fairly clean) and wells for water (lots of tadpoles; might be drinkable with a filter). It's an easy enough day trip from any nearby city. There is a W1,300 park fee payable at either entrance. If you're driving, just past the small entrance is a gas station with some shops. In front is a red double decker bus. This is one of the best cafes in Korea; the manager was in Europe and makes a good latte (I didn't even tell him "no sugar"!). You can sit in the bus, listen to decent music and look out at the Daedunsan ridge line. . . might be worth the walk even if you come by bus.



Comment added by Eric on October 17th, 2005
I heard Daedunsan was closed to rock climbing...

Comment added by skinsk on December 4th, 2005
Eric, I amended the area to address this. There is a sign, partially scratched out, that says climbing is prohibited in the park. I had seen Koreans climbing there (Ricky's gym had gone), it's in a guidebook, and I saw it featured in Mountain Monthly, so I was a mite suspicious! (Sometimes rules and signs change at different times!) I contacted the Wansan-gun office Daedunsan bureau(that put up the sign) and they had Nam Yeongho notify me that
"Yes, there's a sign 'No Climb'. But You can do. there's no problem in legally. You can get information about climbing in Mt Daedun on November(2005) edition of
the 'MOUNTAIN'.

Comment added by riddle on June 24th, 2006
This place is pretty good, but watch out for some of the ancient bolts. Don't make a trip to climb just this rock; there are several more climbs in the area. If you go to Daedunsan, I would recommend checking out page 85 of the green climbing guide (한국 암장 순례). Even though the map is somewhat inaccurate, it will at least give you a good idea of where the different areas are located.



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