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Gwanaksan Sanbau (산바우) Submitted on June 17th, 2015 by chersland Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Seoul
Park: n/a Rating: 5.10 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 4760 Photos: 5 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Granite crag with about 17 bolted routes. Mostly vertical climbs, with some overhanging or slabby parts. Mostly good quality rock, with some loose/"rotten" parts of the crag.

The routes vary in length, from around 10 m to around 25 m. The bolts and anchors generally look very new and safe. There is, however, some dubious webbing used at the anchors on most routes, but this is in addition to the good-looking wires that are also used.


Directions
By public transportation:
- take subway line 2 (green line) to station "Seoul National University" (NB: not the station "Seoul National University of Education", which is a few stops away)
- go out exit 3 from the subway station. You will see three bus stops ahead of you as you come up the escalator
- from the middle bus stop, take bus number 5513 in the direction of Seoul National University
- stay on bus 5513 until the end of the line (15-20 minutes), which is by the Engineering Building 302 in the university area
- from the bus, walk downwards following the road, until you have past most of the buildings on your right. When you come to a small parking area/open space on your righthand side, walk across this and followed the path/road up the mountain
- follow the road/path until you reach a some steps. Here, you can follow a "real" path (i.e. not paved) that goes steeply upwards. Follow this for about an hour, until you reach a peak with a Korean flag on top. The crag is located at the back of this peak; just continue down on the backside, and you will see the crag down to your left before the path continues up again

NB: please see directional map in the Map section above, which makes this much easier to understand.


Safety Concerns
Most bolts and anchors look quite new and fine.

Some first bolts are quite high up, and could lead to nasty falls. Many routes can, however, be toproped, as they can be accessed from the top fairly easy.

Some sections of the rock (particularly the start of route 3-4 in the topo photo) is pretty "rotten", and care should be taken not to pull off or step off any large rocks. From route 6 and further right, the rock is mostly nice and solid, as well as route 1-2.

I recommend that you wear a helmet at all times when belaying and hanging out below the wall.


Gear to Bring
A 60 m rope and 10-12 quickdraws should be plenty.


Additional Comments
There are no shops etc. nearby, so make sure to stock up on food and water before going, e.g. at the convenience store by exit 3 at the Seoul National University subway station.

Most of the crag (apart from the top of the routes) is in the shade from around noon, so heat is not a major issue even in the summer.

Here is a Korean blog post with topo and photos from the area:
http://blog.daum.net/action8848/1843979

Another blog post with photos and topo:
http://blog.daum.net/_blog/BlogTypeView.do?blogid=0YbeR&articleno=314





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