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Chuncle Ridge - 춘클릿지 Submitted on June 17th, 2010 by yandy Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gangwon-Do City: Chuncheon
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.11 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 4580 Photos: 2 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Seven pitch ridge with beautiful views over Eui-am lake and dam. Bolted by Chuncheon Climbers in 2008. If you take the original route it's fairly easy: 5.9 - 10b. A couple of pitches have alternative, tougher routes in the 11s.

Start:
50m walk up from the route map at the road. Ignore the grades on the sign. It was put up by the council, who haven't a clue about the climb.

Pitch 1:
5.9 - 30m - 5 Bolts.
Easy face onto ridge.

Pitch 2:
5.10a - 30m - 2 Bolts.
From the anchor, climb past the tree directly in front of you for about 5m. Pitch 2 starts here.
This is only 10a because of the first two bolts on the face. After that it's run out slab up to the anchor. (I'd probably downgrade it to a 5.9)

Alternative/New Pitch 2:
5.11c - 40m - 10 Bolts.
At the anchor of the first pitch, don't climb up past the tree. Instead, climb the bolted face directly in front of you. It then joins up with the original second pitch after about 10m and 4 extra bolts.

Pitch 3:
5.9 - 32m - 7 Bolts.
Face - slab - face - ridge. From the anchor step up and right into the crack, then scale the slabby face up to the tree. You can set up a belay at the tree and turn this into to two pitches, if there's three of you and you only have a 60m rope. The second part of this pitch goes straight up for about 8m, then you have to traverse left across a short ridge to the belay point. The winding nature of this climb makes top belaying a little difficult, so be sure to extend your quickdraws with some slings.

Abseil 8m

Pitch 4:
5.10b - 30m - 9 Bolts.
The best climb on the route. It's the one on the right. 30m of face. A bit run out in places. Good for scaring yourself.

Alternative/New Pitch 4:
The left face of the has recently been bolted. Same height as the old route. I think it's an 11b, with a slight overhang at the top. Not sure how many bolts.

From the top of pitch 4, walk about 30m out to your right.

Pitch 5:
5.8 - 30m - 4 Bolts
Easy. More of a walk than a climb.

Walk a couple of hundred metres up to pitch 6. Follow the ribbons and arrows.

Pitch 6:
5.9 - 30m - 4 Bolts
Similar to the previous pitch, but with a couple of bouldery moves in the middle.

Pitch 7:
5.10a - 30m - 7 Bolts
A bit more of a real climb. Again, extend your quickdraws to avoid drag.

Walk off to the right. Follow the footpath back down to the dam.


Directions
Get to Eui-am Dam (의암담). Go to the side of the bridge with the restaurants. Walk straight, with the lake on your left, for about 500m, through the tunnel. You will come to a little opening, with a sign that has information about the ridge. Go up here.

To get to the dam, I would advise getting in a taxi and saying Eui-am dam. It will only be about 7000won from the bus terminal. There's a bus stop next to the dam and all buses go back into town, but I'm not sure which one to take to get out there.

If you are driving, take the 46 out of Chuncheon for about 7km. Go through the Eui-am tunnel, then take the first right, through the village to the dam.


Safety Concerns
A bit muddy and chossy in places.
Flashers.
Tigers.


Gear to Bring
14 quick draws.
60m rope.
Helmet.
Shoes.
Harness.
Belay device.
Daisy Chain.
Ruck Sack.
Tea.
Pants.


Additional Comments
Korean information is here:

http://cafe.daum.net/chuncle



Comment added by Donnaeko on June 22nd, 2013
Second pitch information appears different on the Korean site.

Comment added by Donnaeko on June 22nd, 2013
Also for finding the start of the climb it is about 200m further than Uiam am jang towards Chuncheon away from the dam (the route is signed a little after the small tunnel)



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