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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
Songgye Submitted on May 17th, 2010 by robinelijah Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Busan
Park: n/a Rating: 5.9 - 5.13 Style: Sport
Views: 6925 Photos: 5 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

There are 33 bolted routes that I found. One 5.9, a couple of 10a-c's and a bunch of more difficult stuff. All bolts are new. The anchors I encountered were hooks, but there might be some rings up there. So a sling wouldn't hurt. The rock granite. It's is a little sharp in places but overall it's pretty good. And some of the ratings seemed a bit steep. Both of the 10.a's work up an arete. And there is a very small cave that you can check out on one of the 10.d's.

Ok, so this place is easy to find, but it takes a while to get there. It's on the outskirts of Busan but it takes at least three hours to get here from the center of the city. Go to Hadan station near the end of the orange subway line. Go out exit 3 and you'll see a big bus stop right there. You can take the 58-1, 58-2, or the 9-1. They all go to a small town called Yong-wuan. I took 9-1 but I've heard 58-1 is the best way. At Yong-wuan you transfer to the #1 bus. I think the 58-1 drops you off very near the #1 stop. If you take the 9-1, from the end of the line, walk back the way you came toward the Family mart, turn right at the first light and walk straight about 5 minutes to the #1 bus stop. I waited about 1/2 hour for this bus on a Sunday. The #1 goes to the tiny fishing village of Chon Song. From there it is about a 45 minute hike to the crag. If you are looking out at the sea, on your left is a point with a fairly busy road going over it. Walk up that road. Half way over the hill there is a sharp switchback with a big concrete drainage ditch nearby. Another 50 feet up the road is a much smaller concrete drainage ditch. Walk up the samller ditch. At the top of it you'll see a small trail going right. That will lead you to the crag. The 2nd half of the trail is pretty steep but there are ropes to lower yourself down on. You can also catch a water taxi to the crag from Chon Song instead of hiking. Ask around in the corner store across from the jetty. But the hike is pretty cool. *See navigational photos to locate the trail

Safety Concerns
bolts are all new and pretty. A few of the routes are accesed by climbing around a ledge on a steel bar, then scrambling up a cliff. You'll need to be tied in on belay for these.

Gear to Bring
Some of the climbs are pretty tall, and there is at least one multi-pitch here. But the top half of the multi-pitch is more of a scramble. 12 draws should be fine on most of the routes. There's also good swimming here, so bring a swimsuit.

Additional Comments
These are sea cliffs. And in the afternoon the crag is in the shade. So it's a pretty good summer spot. There are currently three campspots here. And if you put a little work into it you could find/make another. The ground is really steep so some kind soul had built up a couple of flat areas. The first one you walk by at the very end of the trail. The second is on a hidden path that begins about 10 feet up the trail and to the right from the first campsite. You'll know if you are on the trail if there are ropes tied to trees to help you climb up. At the end of this trail is a spot for a tent and a spring with drinking water. The last spot for a tent is on a big flat rock at the bottom of the crag. Aside from water, there is no access to food etc out there, so bring everything with you.

Comment added by robinelijah on August 23rd, 2010
just climbed here again and if you swim up the coast, you'll find a few really fun dws problems.

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