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Dweiji Bawi (Pig Rock)- Daedunsan Submitted on April 8th, 2010 by shanja Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Daejeon
Park: Daedunsan Park Rating: 5.9 - 5.12 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 9826 Photos: 2 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Grippy dark granite face climbing with a little slab and some crack features. A severe overhang cave for the insane (5.13s). About 20 routes all up, with the majority being in the 510a-10d range. Two new shiny metal info boards (about 40x25cm) are screwed onto the rock near either end of Dweiji Bawi and can give good exact rout info.

Although this park is oft listed as being near Jeonju (and it is) it is also very close to the bigger city of Daejeon so I put that as the city...no offence, it's just a better transport hub.
Buses from Seo-Daejeon Bus Terminal and Daejeon Bus Terminal run their very often in the day. I'll add details later, but it's like every 20mins from Seo-Daejeon and takes about 40 mins to get there with all the country stops. By car from Daejeon, go out past the Daejeon Zoo-land (O-Park) and follow all the signs saying "Daedunsan Mountain". Very easy.
Stop at the Yong-mun entrance...do not go all the way to the main village entrance. This entrance is (coming from Daejeon end) just after you pass the Service Station (Gas Station) atop the hill overlooking the rock-fest of Daedunsan, and with the giant archway over the main road. Drive down about 1-2 kms and you'll see a billboard on your right with a green metal fence (and usually a few cars parked). Opposite side of road is usually a blue Bongo truck-tarp thing selling arrow-root juice. Can't miss the place. Just park (on the right) and hike up the trail towards Shinseon Am (New Millenium Ridge etc). At the Buddhist Cave-Recluse ladies house, go right up the track (NOT LEFT and below her place!). From the top and Shinseon Am sport crag/ NM Ridge start, either walk around and below a tad off to the left and up the scree valley OR do NM Ridge (seperate post) and when you come down the raps/ walk off you'll be there!
The metal info boards list each route, it's grade, bolts, height and so on. Some routes have a tag on the 1st bolt with the route name (in Korean) to help you locate your route.

Safety Concerns
Everything looks really new and good. Bring a few small/ mid cams for some routes. Although the rock is pretty clean, there is a little lose stuff about, and the walk in and out can be rather treacherous underfoot - shoes, not just sandals are highly recommended. Lose leaf litter, wobbly scree rocks and a decently steep trail. Also any accident here would require quite a carry-out, so be careful.

Gear to Bring
As above, most stuff is really good and 12-14 draws will suffice most routes, but a few need a cam or two. Many routes can be done with a single 60m rope, but some are 2 pitcgh and 2 60m ropes would be needed. Helmets a great idea always.

Additional Comments
This area has very few visitors even though the routes are well established and all bolts/ anchors newly replaced. In summer it would have good shade, and the Buddhist/ Shanman recluse lady is a very kind and sweet old dear. Drop a few thousand won in her donation box (against her protestations) if you fill up water-bottles at her place. It's teh only potable water from main road onwards.

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