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Muido Submitted on September 8th, 2009 by dan13 Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Incheon
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 3578 Photos: 22 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

what kind of rock?
not sure.... seems super chossy in some places , and totally solid on other routes

according to one topo there are like 80 or so routes on the whole island...the area we found had about 20-30 ranging from about 5.8-5.11 and anywhere from 10-20m

1. take the subway or airport bus to incheon international airport and then go to the third floor to catch a short ride on bus 222 to Muido (make a note here: there are 2 different buses with the same number,222, get the one to Muido, the other one goes to a different ferry).

2. get on the ferry for like 2 minutes then take the only green village bus to HANAGAE YOUWONJI (the beach and climbing area.) approx. 15-20mins.

3. once you get off the bus, buy your tickets to enter the beach and then walk past and through the shops and restaurants til you get to the beach.

4. when you're on the beach, keep walking left about five minutes to where the rock starts and the beach ends, which then leads to the climbing....you'll see some nice cliffs soon after...

Safety Concerns
anchors without manky bombed out wire death triangles....
seems koreans are finally catching on--solid anchors with chains

none of the routes we tried seemed to be runout either.....nice, shiny, new bolts for your clipping pleasure...

cause this crag is so new it still needs to be cleaned......so it can be CHOSSY! belayers watch out, on my first climb I pulled off a huge early 80s microwave size rock and nearly decapitated danielle my belayer....that being said helmets are a good idea.

Gear to Bring
just your usual set of draws, 60m rope should be fine...

Additional Comments
check the tides if you can... when we went the first time the tide just happened to be out all day which let us climb no problem.....if you get there at high tide you might not be able to climb til it goes out again...

this crag gets a lot of sun as there's not many trees, there might be some shade later in the day or early morning on some of the climbs....

there's a convenience store nearby to get snacks, water and beer for post climbing consumption...

a few of the usual korean seafood shacks selling squiddies, clams and other raw stuff...

we camped on the beach right next the climbs,
looks as if there lots of other options if you don't have a tent...

if you're just planning a day trip the last ferry off Muido back to incheon airport is at 20:00, (however I don't know when the last green village bus which takes you from the climbing to the ferry is...check it out if you can)

Comment added by skinsk on September 14th, 2009
Found this thread on KOTR
which should give you pause when planning your trip. Have fun and be safe!

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