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Byeong Pung Am Submitted on September 14th, 2008 by climbhigher14k Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gangwon-Do City: Donghae
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.13 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 12490 Photos: 11 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

Byeong Pung Am, located in the beautiful Mureung Valley, has about 18 routes, many of which are two pitch climbs. The rock is high friction (and somewhat sharp) granite. Most of the climbs have a bolt or three, but there are only three or four that are fully bolted. There are easily protected cracks, face climbing, and a couple of overhangs. Where the place really shines is in 5.9 cracks. They are Suweeeeet! The anchors are decent, although some of the less traveled climbs have ratty webbing- it wouldn't hurt to bring a knife and some fresh webbing.

Driving: Get to Donghae on highway 7. If coming from the north, you will pass a K2 store on your right. Just after the K2 store, you will come to a large intersection, with a sign for MuReung Valley (무릉 게곡), telling you to turn right. From then on, follow the signs! It is very easy! From the intersection, it should take about 10 minutes.

Public transpo: Take a bus to Donghae. When you get to the bus station, either jump a cab (about 11 km) or ask about a bus to Mureung Valley (무릉 게곡).

From the parking lot, go past all of the shops and restaurants, and go to the ticket office. After buying your ticket, follow the main trail through a beautiful boulder-strewn valley for about 45 minutes (2.6 km). If you are ever unsure if you are going the right way, you should be following signs to Yongchu Falls (용추폭포) and Ssang Falls (쌍폭포). As you approach Ssang Falls, you should be able to see the crag above the trees on your right, on the other side of the stream. Continue up the trail, cross the bridge (over the slot canyon), and go past Ssang falls toward Yongchu Falls. Before you get to Yongchu falls, there should be a faint trail up the mountain, toward the crag. Scramble up, and you have arrived!

Safety Concerns
WEAR A HELMET! Although the rock is generally high quality, we had some rock fall issues... bring some extra webbing for some of the anchors... Most of the bolts were ok, but some showed a lot of rust.

Gear to Bring
12 quickdraws are more than enough. Most of the climbs are around 30 meters, so bring a 60 meter rope.

Of the climbs I did, I never needed anything bigger than a number 3 Camalot. If you have .5-3 Camalots, you should be alright, although some smaller pieces wouldn't hurt.

Additional Comments
The crag gets sun in the morning. Food and water are 45 minutes down the trail. I haven't seen any other climbers there, though I haven't been on a Sunday. This fact alone makes it a great destination! There are 3 small tent sites, and if you have a water filter, you can pump water from the stream (about 5 minutes from the climbing). If you do camp, bring a trowel and bury your waste!!!

The setting for this crag is amazing, and the hike up to the crag is reason enough to come. This place is GREAT for learning how to crack climb.

Comment added by skinsk on September 18th, 2008
I placed my #4 and walked it about 4 times!!

Some of these cracks get big. . . if I had a #5 I would have used it. . . same climb, I placed nuts and small gear too! Bring some slings too. . . various sizes work!

Comment added by skinsk on September 18th, 2008
Worth noting that the 18 routes are all marked with yellow arrows (they're numbered too, but the numbers are fading). . . and old route guide from June 2002 Mountain Magazine is in a plastic folder tied to a tree just where the approach trail tops out.

Comment added by dmclean on April 17th, 2009
Public bus to Meureung is the 12-4. It only runs every 30-45min.

There is at least one possibly two other crags in this park.

There is a local climbing club that sometimes climbs here on Sundays. They meet at the restaurants at the entrance to the park at 7 or 8 am. If you are walking by they might let you climb with them. Keep your eyes open. They speak zero to little English though.

They took me out to the other crag which was about 6 sports route with the hardest being a low 5-11.

Comment added by GDog on March 9th, 2010
The route guide had come off the tree with no way to re-attach it, so i put under the roof of the obvious bivi spot towards the left side of the crag.

Comment added by GDog on April 7th, 2010
The route guide has now vanished from said bivi spot!

Comment added by GDog on October 11th, 2010
New route: - i have included this so hopefully other people will repeat this route to keep it clean and reduce moss/lichen levels!
Pressing Engagement: (30m) Climb “route 18” (furthest on right) to the move just past the 4th bolt (clip it long). Traverse left on big footholds and small pockety crimps to climb juggy crack. Place good gear (final pieces) and bear slightly left to finish up the face on good holds to good finishing jugs (ignoring crack of route 18 out right) and engaging mantel finish. Belay/lower as route 18.

Comment added by GDog on November 24th, 2010
New Route at Mureung
Mureung Valley Byeong Pung Am

"Commitment Issues" : 20m (5.10b?) trad

Between climbs "1" and "2" - Left hand side of crag, just before you turn corner for "route 1", start at two trees close together.

A couple of easy slab moves lead to big horizontal break, mantle this to gain small crimps above and good finger crack.
Follow good finger crack straight up until it fades out, make technical move from a pebble and thin sidepull to a good edge / sloper then move up and left through overhang and easier ground to big tree.

Belay / lower from big tree (great view!)

Should anyone repeat this; please let us know what you think!


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