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Daejeon Climbing Wall/ 대전 클라이밍 월 Submitted on September 1st, 2008 by shanja Print
Type: Artificial Walls Province: Chungcheongnam-Do City: Daejeon
Views: 9220 Photos: 15 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
This is the newest in climbing walls, having just been opened with a seriess of invite only comps on August 30th 2008; public usage from September 1st 2008. It's big. 18 metres high, with a giant all weather roofed cavern in the centre buttressed by jutting overhanging aretes on either side. The outer (left and right side) walls are vertical generally, though with bulges here and there. It's a tad intimidating in size and appearance, but really well designed and open to public use (free of charge) from dawn till dusk. Floodlights will be added in the future I believe.


Directions
It's in the south gate car-park area of Daejeon's Yuseong-Gu World Cup Sports Stadium (대전, 유성구의 월드컵 경기장 - 남문 주차장에). Getting there is easy enough. Options include:
1-By car (from out of Daejeon): Drive to the Yuseong IC (유성IC) on Highway #1 (the Homnam Expressway/ 호남고속도로). Come through the IC gates, get in the righthand most lane that turns left. (As you come through the IC gates the stadium is slap bang in front of you -100m, and it's a T-junction. 5 lanes (I think) turn left and 1 or 2 turn right) See the navigation sign photo. As soon as you make that left turn the South Gate car-park entrance (on your right) is there. Go in and drive up 100m, to the car-park on the left. You can easily see the wall by now. Get out and climb.
2-By car (within Daejeon)rive to the World Cup Stadium in Yuseong and go in the South Car-Park entrace. It matters little if you come in on either highway 32 (the road that goes from Kalmadong past the Daejeon Ilbo and through downtown Yuseong out towards Kyeryongsan National Park/ Gonju) or from hanbatdaero (한밭대로) which goes from Dunsan dong area past Chungnam Uni entrance out to Yuseong.
By Subway: Easiest. Take the subway to World Cup Stadium Station (유성월드 컵경기장 역). Get out and walk back east a few hundred metres over to the Stadium. South gate entrance as above (IC gates behind you).
By Bus: from wherever you are the following numbers go there/ very nearby; 111-1, 104, 132, 133, 140 and closish, 102, 103 and 107 (leaving you a 10 minute walk). Just tell the driver "World Cup Stadium?".


Additional Comments
Bring at least 12 draws. A 50 m rope should be OK, but a 60m lets you wander routes and do the long overhangs with room to spare.
Water and food are available at the car-park entrance shop, when it's open (usually all day). This is also where the nearest public toilets are too, bring TP (date roll/ dunny paper/ tissue). It's faced to give you shade in the summer and should be OK even in the winter snows, but you'd wanna rug up. It's new so not all routes are overly be-decked with holds and a lot of it is hard-really hard. Also be aware that as yet, routes have only double bolted hangers to anchor off - no wired anchors with fish-hook quick clips. This should be "fixed" in the very near future. Access to set top-ropes via a rear stairway of sorts may or may not be open. It was during the weekend of opening, but I suspect it won't be generally.



Comment added by shanja on May 2nd, 2009
The routes here are fantastic! The easier routes are to be found on the right hand-side as you face the behemoth wall and also on the left flank side wall (outside). Many of the routes have grades taped under them, and most are colour coded. The right side of the cave (from R-L):
Peachy Keen - 5.9/10a
Rainbow Parade - 5.8/9 (no set course)
Rose Red - 5.10c
Old Yellow - 5.9
Violet Blue -5.10b
Rusty Red/Brown - 5.10d/11a
Then in the cave itself at the middle of the back is a Black&White route that shoots up the super overhung back wall and out through the roof till the lip...I dunno if it has a name, but it is about 5.10d/11a also and a tonne of fun - very juggy.
At the back left corner of the cave is another Black and White holded route that is called 똥덩어리 (Pile of Poo) - crazy route and likewise fun, has some big dynamic moves and gets you up to the roof for some potantial wild air-time.

As yet, the wall is only open till 6pm, because they don't have a qualified safety officer to be there later (문승범 [shorter stocky smiling guy] & 이형찬 [thinner glasses wearing smiling guy] who are always there doing that job, have to leave and have a seperate life at some point. If you go, say thanks to these guys, because they made the routes and keep it open 10am-6pm.

Oh and finally, there are now great eco-friendly toilets and drinking fountains just next to the wall. No need to trek back to the Daejeon Citizens Soccer Team Store by the car-park entrance for water/ ablutions.

Anchors are all pigs-tail type twisted steel loops and very easy to clip (except that all anchors are way overhung!). If you are TR-ing a route PLEASE LEAVE THE LAST QUICKDRAW CLIPPED TO THE ROPE this is for back-up/ redundancy, and check the quickdraws that live on the routes - the often spin a bit and the biners may get cross-loaded if you don't straighten them out as you go up.
The wall is closed on Mondays, Buddhas Birthday and Christmas.

Comment added by shanja on March 7th, 2010
As from April 2010, the wall will be open til 10pm on Tuesday and Thursday nights. As 문승범 said, just in time for the mosquito fest! All new routes are made on the wall every 4 months, the next scheduled change coming in May 2010 I believe. Also there will be FREE "sports climbing" classes being run at the wall, FOR ALL ABILITY LEVELS from April (I think). I'll attach the Korean and English schedules soon.
New small back bouldering wall that is in the sun, great fun and usually empty too. Walk round behind the main walls on the left side (as facing).
Reminder to please take away all rubbish (no bins) and that there is no cooking allowed within the walls fenced perimeter. The lads can order Chinese take away for you though, if you ask.

Comment added by shanja on June 24th, 2010
The Tues/ Thursday night climbing sessions are great! The mosquitoes still few, and the new (post comp) routes are interesting too. Hopefully we'll even have a layback style route in the near future. Also please eat any food other than snacks at the funky new wooden shelter thing by the office, the delivery guy drops off and picks up food to there as well.

Comment added by ntong10 on October 12th, 2010
I'm planning to go to Daejeon this weekend, Oct 15-17, and I want to check out this wall and get my climb on. Problem is, I left all my climbing equipment back in the states. Is there renting here? and if not, are there any shops nearby where I can pick up a few things? Thanks!

Comment added by Keyvan on October 9th, 2017
Visited this wall two times in 2017. It is great and most of the people speak English.



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