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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Jeokdeokri: Sangsa, Buchae Bawis Submitted on March 23rd, 2008 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Tongyeong
Park: n/a Rating: 5.7 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 3435 Photos: 8 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 8 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Three nice rocks overlooking the sea and the village of Jeokdeok boast about 25 routes, a few 2 pitches. Some moss and a little dirt, but the rock is pretty solid. The bolts look pretty solid and the place is kept up well. Most of the names are written below the routes, and (sadly), most of the bolts (and often the surrounding rock) are painted red. A few of the routes have some run out sections, and at least one (a one-bolt wonder) has decking potential. Some nuts or small cams might be helpful.


Directions
While not easily accessible by public transportation, a few busses ply route 77 and coastal road 5 (Jeokdeok is right where these roads intersect). . . from Gwangdo-myeon, just north of Tongyeong to Anjeong. Ask the driver to tell you when to get off.

The coastal road is a pleasant ride . . If you're not in a hurry you can follow 77 almost all the way down the coast from Masan. Expressway 35 goes all the way to Tongyeong. . . exit Tongyeong interchange and head northeast to Gwangdo-myeon (the myeon-- rural administrative district-- that Jeokdeok Village and the climbs are in). Jeokdeokri is one of many small villages, but the giant rocks behind it signal you are here! It's just west of the three way junction where 5 branches off from 77, and if you're on 5, you'll pass several large ships and a more industrial area on the coast just before the village. It's not well signed; if you're coming from 5, you can see giant rocks above the village. If you're coming from the north, the intersection has a jjimjilbang sign (in Korean) at the turnoff. See navigational photos.

Follow the main road through the village (Jeokdeokgil) towards the obvious road heading to the rocks. This road is steep! If you have a 4-wheel dive, go for it; otherwise, you might consider parking somewhere (not so many places!) in town. This will add maybe 10 minutes to the not-so-bad approach.

Follow the paved road up . . . there's some parking on top. Walk a few minutes on the gravel road. You can turn off on two different paths: the first has a small white sign for Sangsa Bawi and Buchae Bawi and skirts around a ditch. Better yet, head another minute and take the "roped" path up. The first route brings you to Buchae, the second to Sangsa. The two rocks are connected by a trail.


Safety Concerns
Looks like some stellar climbing! Some of the older multi-pitches are more than 60 meters. Some of the multipitches are more than 60 meters though; if you do rap from the top, check that the ropes make it all the way and tie knots.

My car wouldn't make it all the way up the paved road, so I had to drive backwards most of the way down! I don't recommend the road if you don't have 4-wheel drive.


Gear to Bring
A dozen draws and 60 meter rope will work on most climbs.


Additional Comments
The village is big enough to have some shops, a market, restaurant, but I didn't really look around. The climbing is 30 minutes or so from town, but the steep approach would make it advisable to bring what you need. There are terraces and places to hang out at the base.



Comment added by riley on September 14th, 2008
There is a route map by the top rock with route height, grade and number if bolts. Some of the grades seemed a bit on the low side to me though.

Bring insect repellant - this place has monster mosquitoes



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