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New Millenium (새 천년) Submitted on October 22nd, 2007 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jeonju
Park: Daedunsan Park Rating: 5.10 - 5.10 Style: Traditional
Views: 11305 Photos: 5 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

New Millenium is a 5 pitch trad route up one of the more beautiful ridges in Daedunsan Provincial Park. The first 3 pitches are less than vertical, with face and crack sections, and it finishes with 2 short slabby (though interesting) climbs. It's a route that's just challenging and thoughtful enough for experienced leaders and relative beginners to enjoy.

P1 40 meters 5.9 four bolts/additional gear possible. Mostly slabby. 15 meter rappel off the back to the next pitch. Good views of Sinseon Bawi to your left

P2 40 meters 80-90degrees 5.10a four bolts/additional placements. After the anchor, you'll have to walk about 25 meters on the "terrace" to pitch 3.

P3 40 meters 10a, follows a line of several cracks with some positive face holds. Enough runout to keep it interesting! You can "exit" from here left, and you'll be at the top of the 2nd pitches of Sinseon Bawi (sport climbing).

P4 25 meters 5.9 mostly slabby climb. . . belay from anchor, then walk through the foliage to

P5 20 meters 5.8 starts left a bit, then follows the ridge. . .

From the top, there's a 20 meter free rappel-- walk off left and down.

Busses run from Jeonju, Gunsan, Iksan (infrequently) and Daejeon directly to Daedunsan. From Jeonju or Daejeon, it's a straight shot on road 17. Best to start at the YongMunGol (용문골), or "small entrance" trailhead just a few hundred meters up the road (towards Daejeon) from the main entrance. There's parking available just across from the trail, but it does fill up on weekends! There's no longer a ticket booth here, but you'll pass signs and see a well-worn trail. Follow the trail about 40 minutes to SinseonAm, a small hermitage built into a natural cave. Here you canrest and fill up on water (and leave an offering for the resident nun). The direct trail to the rock heads up and right from here-- it's steep but pretty obvious. Follow this another 15 minutes or so and you'll see a depression "cave" in the rock with bolts to the right. This is the start of the route.

Safety Concerns
No real concerns-- solid rock, though some pitches can be run-out and awkward! At times it's hard for the belayer to see the climber, so attention and good communication are important!

Gear to Bring
One set of cams, 2 slings, 10 quickdraws and a 50 meter rope will suffice for 2 persons. The rock also takes nuts, so if you're fond of these, bring 'em too! A helmet is recommended!

Additional Comments
Could be crowded on a Sunday, but we had it to ourselves on a beautiful fall Saturday!! A lot of pitches go out of the sun early.Great opportunity to try all kinds of moves, stem, crimp, crack, smear, mantle, sidepull, undercling, downclimb. . . fun fun!

Comment added by shanja on October 22nd, 2007
Yeah it's a great day out, but get your belays and rope systems wired first or you can slowed way down. Lovely views all day, and great rock! The 1st pitch is probably harder than 5.9 at it's crux and definitely needs some extra cams/ nuts. Walk off at the end is NOT on a marked trail (at first anyways).

Comment added by tlt on May 6th, 2009
Climbed this route on 5-5-09. Generally good rock, impressive views, and adventurous logistics make this a worthy outing. We hitchhiked from the bus terminal in Daedunsan to the YongMunGol entrance, otherwise it would be a 10-15 minute walk up the highway, where a long sheet-metal wall is next to the road. Behind this is the trailhead. If you want to camp there is a meadow and another two spots two minutes up the trail, with annual water in the nearby stream. The first pitch comes to a ledge and a tree, I belayed here and then went around to the right, without rappelling(but the down climbing is a bit dangerous). Continue, either up, or left and then up, from this ledge to get to the proper belay anchor for the first pitch. This puts you on top of the formation you rappel off the backside of. The terrace after pitch two curves up and left and warrants a belay for those not accustomed to exposure. The descent requires route-finding(avoiding dead-ends and cliff-outs) and a little down-climbing, so make it a point to do it with sunlight. It eventually goes past some climbs that look worthy of a day to spend cragging on. The descent then traverses across talus and deposits you back on the trail 2-3 minutes below the base of the climb.

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