Very gneiss rock--very very solid for sea cliffs, from pretty much vertical to very overhanging. Most if not all the routes have overhanging starts, but several routes finish under the roofs. . .
There are twelve sport routes-- the easier ones are on the right. Features vary from faces, roofs, cracks and overhangs, with great friction and pumpy cruxes.
From Taean (W of Seosan on route32) head N on 603, branching left on 634, following the signs to the beach (pretty much the end of the line, about 22k N of Taean) There are busses from Taean terminal to the beach; the schedule as of July 2008 is posted under navigational photos (it has the number for the terminal as well; double-checking recommended!) There were a few (summer?) scheduled busses from Cheonan.
It would be a pretty expensive taxi ride!
The cliffs are visible N of the beach (not so much the climbing cliffs as the ones next to them). . . depending on tide you can walk around (sketchy with gear). . . the easier way is to drive behind the cliffs on the paved road. There's a pullout on the left (beach) side, with an obvious trail going up. Follow the trail, keeping left at the abandoned concrete building, pass several smaller concrete structures. You can see some anchors at the top, then head way left and around and down to the base.
The routes were put up in summer 2006 (Korean Bwanteo Club), so the bolts seem solid and are pretty shiny, (though some are beginning to show signs of rust. . . inevitable given the location); the webbing anchors might use some back-up. The anchor for one of the easier climbs (r) is set back a ways, and we found it best for TRing to belay from the top, using a ropebag to reduce the friction on the rope over the lip.
Routes should be backclipped for TRing as the potential for the climber to peel and swing (beautifully over the ocean!) is great, but the base is variable and we saw a few folks almost taken out!
The aproach trail has several trenches/holes you could twist an ankle in. There is a short jump to get to the base over a pretty deep chasm.
The cliffs get some strong winds and rough weather, so the gear here should be checked seasonally.
Watch out where you drive/park. . . we dug/pushed 2 cars out of the sand trap!
There are fishhooks left around on the rocks and sand. It's tempting to go barefoot on the beach, but watch for these! We picked up several by the climbing area.
Gear to Bring
8 draws (plus some for the anchors if you're TRing/lowering will get you up all routes except one, which has 11 bolts?! The longest routes are 15m.
It's in the sun and right by the sea so dusk and dawn are the best times to climb in the summer season (but most crowded). Definitely a summer destination, though on the weekend we went there were several climbing teams. The climbers kept their trash in bags and carried it out, as should everyone!
There are designated camping areas, min-baks, a "motel town" and high end pensions for every budget, but all set back from the beach.
There were bioluminescents in the water, making our nighttime swims all the more enchanting.
It's a beautiful area, with great people all around. The beaches were amazingly clean; still we picked up some of what debris there was--bring a bag! While there's no fee, it is in a National Park. If you go, please use common sense and obey the rules so that the climbing can continue!