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Sinban Am Submitted on June 7th, 2007 by climbhigher14k Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeongsangnam-Do City: Uiryeong
Park: n/a Rating: 5.9 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 6951 Photos: 5 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 4 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
This drive-up sport area boasts approximately 40 sport routes, ranging from 5.9 to 5.12a. There are a few nice roof routes, and a plethora of both easy and hard face routes. Most of the routes have names and grades painted at the bottom. The roof climbs range from 10 to 15 meters, while some of the longer routes are a little over 20 meters. The bolts look very good and the rock quality, for the most part, is excellent.


Directions
The only down side to this crag is that it is most likely only accessible by car. It is located beside a stream off road 20, northeast of Uiryeong, in the village of Sinban-ri. This village is about 10 kilometers south of Jeongdeok. If coming from the south, you will pass a gas station on your left. Just past the gas station, you should see the crag on your right. Take the next exit, which should swing you into town. Go into town, turn left, then turn left again (after 60 or so meters) to cross a bridge back over the stream. Take your very first left, just past the bridge, which is a small concrete "road." Look down each side street on your right until you see a tunnel, which goes under road 20. After the tunnel, turn left, and you should find yourself in a gravel parking area, at the base of some over-hung routes. There are more walls to the left and at least one more a ways right.

This sounds very complicated, but I promise it is easy when you get there.


Safety Concerns
Everything seems pretty good, except that the anchors are typical Korean wire and hooks.


Gear to Bring
A rope and some draws should do ya.


Additional Comments
My wife and I happened on this crag while avoiding highway 10 traffic on a Sunday. We arrived about 6:00 and there was a climbing group from Daegu packing up... I imagine it can get crowded on Sundays, but there are a lot of routes and it is fairly remote, which should help the situation. Bring bug spray if you use the stuff: the crag sits next to some rice fields.



Comment added by skinsk on June 9th, 2007
While in Sinbanri (rural area), the rocks are better known as 해골바위/Haegol Bawi and 병풍암/Byeongpung Am in the magazines, books and websites.

Comment added by skinsk on June 18th, 2007
OH-- and it's the cover story of the May 2007 magazine Climber with route guide and topo-- which means both should be on the net soon. If I run across a link I'll post add it (as I assume others would). There are a couple of 12c's and three 12b's on the upper end, only two 5.9+s at the lower end, but lots and lots of moderates.

And heed Kris's warning about the bug-spray! This is the place Jordan mentioned she might have picked up the debilitating tick-carried tsutsumagushi!

Comment added by skinsk on April 27th, 2008
When you're in town (Burim/부림), you'll turn left at the main intersection, just past the post office (there's a Nonghyup Bank on your left, the police station in front of you to the right. . . and the bus terminal just next to that. From here it's 300 meters past the bank to the bridge, and a sharp left after the bridge. . . another 350 meters following the signs for Songamsa (well, 송암사 as they're in Hanguel) the temple in the middle of the climbs. . . see navigational photos.

If you arrive by bus, it's a right out of the terminal, head past the police station 350 meters to the bridge, etc. . .

Comment added by bhylenski on June 14th, 2009
Jen, Shauna, Hana and I hit this place, yesterday. Very well kept crag. We met the Koreans from Busan who re-bolted this crag (Su Beom and others).

To clear up where the climbs are, it's quite simple. Follow Skinsk's directions to get there. She's dead on, when it comes to getting to the temple.

If you park at the temple and are standing facing the steps to the temple. To your right about 100 yards away is a large wall with 8-10 routes from 5.9 -5.10d. Very nice wall, clean, vertical routes with new bolts and anchors. To the right of this wall, is a smaller version of the same thing, with an additional 5.8 as well as a bunch more 9's and 10's.

Facing this crag, are two buildings, one is a small trailer type box with a sink and cabinet meant for family camping. Attached to it is a platform perfect for lunch or shade. You can camp here as well.

For the harder routes at this crag. head back to the Temple. While facing the temple head left around the new buildings and garage. Right in front of you is an overhung wall with a few 12's on it. The bolts are a little older, but have been re-bolted. Follow this trail up and around and you'll find another 20 routes or so between 5.10b and 5.12c This crag ends at a tall overhanging arete, behind that is another trailer like building and shade platform for camping.

There is water at the temple and the family running it was very nice and did not have a problem with us drinking and washing up with their water.

Overall this crag is a great place for everyone and would be a great day trip. Because of it's close proximity to the highway, it's not very quiet and camping could be a bit noisy. But the climbing itself is well worth the trip! Don't miss it, if your in the area.

Comment added by Brad on August 29th, 2010
So I've been climbing and surveying this area via paraglidger for a little while now and I must say it is truly a gem of an area. Take a look at the map I posted for a visual idea. Haegwol can be seen behind a shed of bovines, cross a field and a small stream and volia a cave crag that can be climbed in rain and is always shady. Mega pumpy 11 and 12 power climbs lotta upside down hanging off big jugs. Downside, nothing easy two 10bs, bugs and bovine smell. Down that road further is a multi pitch 40m crag which I don't know but it looks nice from the road.

The roadside crag mentioned here has a lot of good routes for everyone.

As for camping a 5 minute drive away is a pretty neat camp spot with bathroom and water facilities. It is located on a river with a nice swimming hole which is about 3m deep. There are cliffs across the water from the sand and pebble beach with about 10 different routes of the fall->swim variety some of which are high enough to get the heart pumping I was about up 10m on one, could've gone higher but as the water isn't that deep, didn't push my luck.

The other mark is where I meet my paragliding crew as I made this map to navigate roads with a lot of adjumas and few roadsigns the road, a cart path is a really cool one though topping out a 800m before descending to Uiryeong worth a try if your feeling adventurous on the way home.

get at er

Comment added by joshwyatt000 on June 19th, 2012
Visited this area over the weekend from Daegu. Super easy to get to via public transport and would fully recommend it as a place to go either for a weekend or a day trip.
Buses from Daegu leave from Seobu Bus Terminal (Seongdangmot Subway Station on the red line (성당못역)) at the following times: 06:30/ 08:00/ 08:40/ 10:40/ 13:00/ 15:00/ 16:40/ 18:40/ 20:00/ 20:50.
At the counter you want to ask to go to Sinban Bus Terminal (신반 버스터미널) which is the bus station in Burim. The bus takes about 1hr30mins and drops you off in the middle of Burim. The crag is a few hundred metres outside town.
The riverside campsite is fantastic but is about a 5 minute (10,000won) cab ride away. You probably wanna arrange with the cabbie to pick you up the following day too as the campsite is not in any town.

Coming back to Daegu the schedule of buses has slightly changed from the pictures above. They leave at 06:10/ 06:50/ 09:00/ 11:20/ 13:20/ 15:00/ 16:50/ 18:30/ 20:20.

Comment added by alpingoat on May 6th, 2018
Stopped by here in March 2018 on a cross country drive. This crag is in regular use and there's a small climbing community here. My personal opinion is this crag is a nice stop if you're driving through the area, but I wouldn't go out of the way to come here.



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