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Gangcheonsan-- Byeongpung Bawi Submitted on May 14th, 2007 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Gwangju
Park: n/a Rating: 5.10 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 7771 Photos: 4 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Korea's first county park, Gangcheonsan County Park boasts an awful lot of rock! Unfortunately, the bolted routes are right besides (and in some cases, in the middle of) a waterfall. I saw nowhere near the 15 routes (one 10b, one 12b, and 13 5.11s) purported on this cliff, counting 3 anchors and a few bolts (those I inspected closely were shiny, as were the homemade? hangers). Two of the anchors were practically in the falls (this is early May, after a rain two days ago) and most of the routes got a spray. Belaying (dryly) could also pose problems for routes right of the falls.

Gangcheonsan is on road 732 10 kilometers west of Sunchang, 60 kilometers due south of Jeonju on NR 24, and about 25k northeast of Gwangju (off I-12 or National Road 24). Follow the signs out of Suncheon (the park is noted in a brown box at the bottom of the signs). Once inside the park, Byeongpung Falls and Rock are about 30 meters past the ticket booth. Super great approach) though you're bound to be the center of attention. there are picnic areas, a foot bath/shoe locker area just across from the climbs/falls (they try to get you to walk barefoot 2.5k up the path!). Look just around the falls for bolts/anchors. . . I walked around the base and didn't find any further on.

Safety Concerns
The routes here were put up by Jeolla climbers during the same 1996-1998 push that saw routes go up in Daedunsan and Seonunsan. These routes seem a bit more neglected, though. Not sure why this wet rock was chosen among the bazillion in the park. Signs warning of loose rock thoughout the park, and I pulled off pieces near the climbing. I'd swear no one climbs here except everyone I showed the information to from the people at the ticket booths to the woman at the tourist information building acted like a rock climbing inquiry was common and seemed to know about the climbing? which is more than I can say about non climbers around the popular climbing spots in this country?

Gear to Bring
Gets the sun early and often, so maybe being so southern, winter is the time for climbing here? I didn't see enough bolts (supposedly, there are many!) but the ones I saw seemed shiny, if caught in incessant spray from the waterfalls. A 60 meter rope and 14 draws (though I didn't see so many bolts!) should do you.

Additional Comments
Beautiful park, and the climbing routes are right by the entrance. Still, for all the rock these poorly selected routes were the only ones I saw. I didn't check out all the boulders, but the ones trailside either had mossy surfaces or the best ones were in the middle of the stream! Sunchang is known for it's gochujang and the food in the park is excellent! It's a beautiful part of the country, and may be decent for winter. there are a few minbaks and hotels in the park.

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