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SUMEUN BYEOK Submitted on September 19th, 2006 by CHOI BAWI Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Seoul
Park: Bukhansan Park Rating: 5.8 - 5.11 Style: Trad/sport
Views: 8166 Photos: 1 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Description
All of the routes of Sumeun Byeok were developed by the Corean Alpine Club. Sumeun Byeok has seven routes ranging from 5.8 ~ 5.11b and A0, the most difficult route, S5, is 5.11b and A0 in difficulty. The longest routes, S6 & S7, are 75M in length. The routes are primarily all crack. Sumeun Byeok lays hidden between the NW ridges of Baekeun Dae and Insu Ridge, hence, Sumeun Byeok or Hidden Wall. The main headwall is the SW Face. The style of climbing is primarily all crack with some slab sections in between. Due to the approach, this area is far less frequented than Insubong, with few passer-byers and even fewer parties of climbers.


Directions
Take the sky-blue line(#4) to Suyu Station. Come out of Exit #4 go directly to the island in the middle of the main road, take buses #130, 170 or 109 toward Ui-dong will take you to the end of the bus line, the base of Insubong. The road leads straight up to the trailhead of Insubong at the Doseon Temple(도선사) rotary.

APPROACH: The hike from the trailhead is about half an hour to the Insu Ranger Station, from here, stay on the main trail up to the Baekeun Lodge, follow the main trail past the lodge about five to ten meters and cut to the right on a narrower trail leads diagonally up and to the right. This trail will lead directly to the base of Baekeun Slab. Once at the base of the slab, follow the slab's base along the right to the top and follow the trail straight down into the gorge. There is a fat 14mm white static rope to help scramble through this section. Follow the trail down for roughly three hundred meters. Keep your eyes to the right and eventually you will spot a small trail to the right which leads to the base of Sumeun Byeok less than twenty meters away.

APPROACH TIME: 1 1/2 HRS.


Safety Concerns
ANCHORS & BOLTS: Although the bolts of the belay anchors are typically very solid, the Korean habit of slinging them with American triangles is prevalent. Sumeun Byeok is protected by corroded pitons, ring-bolts, and a few good modern bolts. Although the condition of the protection is at a low; as of 2006, the routes are slowly being re-bolted by the CAC. With time, all of these routes will be well-protected routes. Koreans love to run it out. SO KEEP THIS IN MIND!!!

ABSEILING: For routes S1 & S2, abseil from S3 rap station. From the top, look right just around the corner of the bushes on the slab. 60M rope will do.

These routes are presently in the process of being re-bolted by the CAC.


Gear to Bring
Sumeun Byeok is primarily granite crack climbing and primarily a trad crag. Bring a complete rack, even two racks might not be such a bad idea, and prepare for the sketchiest of situations since bolts, pitons, and anchors cannot be guaranteed. A sixty meter rope is a must-- two might not be such a bad idea either for a longer and easier abseil. DEFINITELY BRING AT LEAST A FEW DISPOSABLE SLINGS FOR THOSE LESS THAN OPPORTUNE RAPS!


Additional Comments
PARK FEE: 1,600WON for the Bukhan National Park entrance fee.

CAMPING: Camping is not generally allowed in this area; however, only because it is so deep in the park and off the beaten path that the rangers will doubtfully ever check on you. Even if they did find you, your gear would be evidence enough that you have come to climb. ABSOLUTELY NO FIRES ALOUD!!!!

If you are caught, the penalty is 500,000WON!!! And if you are caught, you could probably get away by playing the "idiot foreigner". But, please remember, you are in Korea, so try to respect their system and way of doing things. A simple apology and promise that you will not do it again without prior notice or permission is usually acceptable.

Also, remember that special exceptions are almost never made for foreigners when they violate a law back home. So let's try to be above the "idiot foreigner" mentality because you have read this and now you know.

WATER: Pack water in or hike much farther down the valley down along the main streambed until water does spring out.

FOOD: Kimbap and foods can be either purchased down by the all the shops or just in front of the trailhead.





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