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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas > Search Results

Musucheon Submitted on August 17th, 2006 by johnny5 Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeju-Do City: Jeju
Park: n/a Rating: 5.9 - 5.13 Style: Sport
Views: 5300 Photos: 8 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: No Maps - Add Images

Description
Musucheon is a riverbed climbing site just outside of Jeju City. The fresh water flows from Halla Mountain which sits in the center of the island. The cliffs straddleing the stream that flows through the riverbed are accesible by foot and present around 20-30 good challenges for intermediate and advanced climbers. The limstone varies from smooth slabs with crimp holds to large jagged faces with jugs to grab hold of, underhand holds, small overhang starts, and small cracks. Some of he rock is polished and can be a bit slick but nothing that a bit of chalk can't overcome. All routes are single-pitched, no higher than 15 meters. There are several great overhang climbs inside an ampetheatre like setting with a huge concave wall.


Directions
Take Highway 95 (West Industrial Highway) southeast out of Jeju City, starting from E-Mart. Follow the road out of the city for 2-3 kilometers until you pass a bridge. Just before the 4 lane road splits and becomes a full fledged 4 lane highway, turn right at a tiny Mom & Pop convenience store tucked in the bushes. The one-lane blacktop road runs between the shop and the riverbed. Follow the road to the back and stay right (don't veer left). The riverbed will always be on your right. After 100 meters or so, you'll see a sharp turn right with guard rails. This is where you can park if you have a vehicle. You'll then see a sign and stairs behind the sign. Take the stairs down into the riverbed, once at the bottom turn left following the stream down. Hike in about 150 meters until the stream jogs left, follow it around and you'll see the concave wall on your left. These are the difficult routes obviously, the easier ones are about 75 meters down stream.


Safety Concerns
Some of the rock is polished, make sure to use chalk. Watch out for loose rocks not on the wall so much, but as you are walking in, its easy to twist an ankle. All the protection seems to be quite sound and i've seen many people climbing on nearly all the routes. The anchors at the top are simply large clips. Its safe of course to add a couple safeties to this. Still you don't need more than 8-10 draws for most of the routes.


Gear to Bring
A 50-60 meter rope and no more than a dozen clips are needed along with the basic climbing gear. No slings are necessary for anchoring. Bring your trunks too, its a great place to take a dip in the summer.


Additional Comments
The Mom & Pop shop I mentioned at the turn-off has snacks, drinks, and even kimbop. If you go in the afternoon, you won't need sunblock because its entirely shaded, quite nice and cool. Take mosquito repelent though as it is quite damp. Great place for all levels of climbers and even if you just want a nice secluded place to camp. Because you can't see out of the riverbed it feels like you could be anywhere at anytime.



Comment added by johnny5 on September 28th, 2006
....notice the change in directions, from 99 to 95, my goof, it is Highway 95

Comment added by dan on March 2nd, 2009
Probably the best climbing in Jeju-do.

If the directions feel a bit confusing, try this in Google Earth

Lat: 3327'48.35"N
Lon: 12626'47.60"E

Comment added by mosahlah on August 2nd, 2011
Better luck with this grid 33.462425 126.447068. The main road leaves the central Nohyeong 5 way as 1136, and changes to 1135 shortly before the turn off at the second bridge. Ignore the green gate at the trailhead, the trail is overgrown but good. Also, Take the weather forecast into consideration as this place has claimed the lives of hikers in a flash flood. Look at the lower gorge and you'll see why. It's deep and steep. The mosquitos here are bad. The gray basalt can be very slick. Very short sporty stuff. Its like spelunking.



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