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Horangsan Amjang Submitted on May 15th, 2006 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollanam-Do City: Yeosu
Park: n/a Rating: 5.8 - 5.12 Style: Sport
Views: 4803 Photos: 12 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
The cliff band that overlooks Yeosu on Mt. Horang 호랑산 has two main crags. The first (and leftmost) is mostly overhanging with big roofs. A few cracks, dihedrals. . . and did I mention the roof? Further right is a more moderate face, slightly slabby, with a prominent (bolted) offwidth-to-chimney crack, a couple of lie-back cracks, but mostly crimpy and sidepull-ie face climbing. The harder routes are longer-- up to 33m? 13 bolts? where the easier crag is under 10 meters with a maximum 4 bolts. Some not-so-helpful topos and helpful photos can be found at http://kjrc.com.ne.kr/ho/ho/htm
Some of the route names are listed under the climbs, but grades are not!! 난이도 is a 5.10b, 상수길 10b 형암 is 10c and 조오유 is 5.8 according to the website. Otherwise for this post I am estimating the grade range!


Directions
Horangsan is in Yeosu, off hwy 17 by the 둔덕삼거리 intersection. The brand new ROAN YOU apartment buildings are a can't-miss landmark, but the mountain itself isn't signed from the road (you'll see it if you head towards Cheonnam Univerisity, the obvious cliff band overlooking the road). There is a green pedestrian bridge crossing from the apartments to a school just below the mountain.

From the train station and inner-city bus terminal, it's a quick taxi ride, or take bus 666 to 둔덕삼거리(dundeoksamgeori-- though nowhere written in English). Other busses that pass are 32, 33, 83, 91,93.

Many trails head up (signs posted at the trailheads), but it's easy enough to start just right of the school. Upwards towards the cliffs that are pretty much visible along the 20 minute approach. You'll pass through a military training area complete with fake buildings, obstacles courses, target range, fake soldiers, and a barb-wired landmine area!! I assume when training is going on you'll want to take another trail!!


Safety Concerns
Bolts and anchors looked shiny and new. Some of the routes on the left had seriously run out starts. Small wires/aliens for the inner corner under the main roof would be helpful. A stick clip is almost mandatory as some of the first bolts are about 4 meters up!! (and then there are 2-3 within a meter or so!!) Some of the routes are over 30 meters, so mind your middle mark or tie a knot in your rope!


Gear to Bring
15 draws and a 60 meter minimum for the 7 or so routes on the lefthand crag. . . 50 meters (30m?!) and half-dozen draws to climb the 6 righthand routes. Some extra long slings would be useful to avoid rope drag on the roofs and meandering routes.


Additional Comments
Sun until late afternoon (summer). . . and some nice camping/picnic spots right near the climb (though this is also a through trail for occasional hikers). It's mostly used by local climbing clubs and schools, but the easy access, quality lines and great views would make it an obvious add-on to any trip to/through Yeosu, and a nice home crag for locals.

No amenities on the mountain, but there are several shops and restaurants on the street just below.



Comment added by normalcyispasse on June 3rd, 2007
20-minute approach? Did you take an elevator I didn't see?

The approach is pretty stout, and is more like 40 minutes. The views are stunning though. Bring water. Also, a couple of the routes are bolted but have no anchors; beware.

Comment added by skinsk on October 20th, 2008
Twice more I've done it. . . 25-27 minutes to the first climbs if you go straight up, and I am not exactly fast!

To the uppermost climbs, maybe closer to 40 minutes.

Comment added by thedudepeters on September 10th, 2009
Allow 45 minutes to hike to the crag. If it takes you 25 minutes that means you won't have any gusto to climb.

***Also it is easy to miss the turn to the crag. If you follow the trail that goes up from the obstacle course, make sure you turn right before the junction. One trail goes straight up the mountain and the other goes straight down. There is a tiny trail just before the junction without a sign, that is where you will turn for the climbs!

Also it is better to park at the church that is past the green bridge as opposed to the school. Just follow the trail up that is behind the church.



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