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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Son Jung-jun’s Sport Climbing Institute Submitted on December 19th, 2005 by curious_j Print
Type: Gyms Province: Gyeonggi-Do City: Seoul
Phone: 02-2297-5014 URL: Visit Gym's Homepage Address: unavailable
Views: 10890 Photos: 23 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 4 Image(s) - Add Images

As the pictures show, this basement bouldering gym has plenty of holds for a variety of wall and ceiling routes. Beginners through advanced climbers will find enough problems for a full work-out. Also you have the option to hurt yourself on finger-boards, campus rungs, and ice-training devices. In addition to the walls, there are lockers, changing rooms, a weight bench, and some foreign climbing mags.

9:00a.m. – 10:00p.m. (Monday-Friday)
9:00a.m. – 8:00p.m. (Saturday) [December-March Only]
Closed (Sunday)

PRICE (in 2005):
10,000 / day
70,000 / month

Why visit this gym?
(1) One Korean climber told me the holds/routes are changed every month, so it never gets stale. Though due to the abundance of holds, it’s hard to see the need.
(2) There aren’t too many gyms where the owner is a professional trainer. Mr. Son Jung-jun has trained teams from China, North Korean, and of course South Korea.
(3) He was not only the first Korean to climb 5.14, but Climbergrrl says he’s the nicest guy in the world. Really. I’ve seen some good evidence to back up her claim.
(4) Also, you’re bound to climb with his wife, Mrs. Yun, who also just happens to be a world class athlete. Maybe you saw her in the Asian X-Games in 2005 or the World Cup competition in France. It helps to have pros demonstrate moves in the gym rather than just read about them in a mag (or online).
(5) Everyone is cool. But that’s true at most gyms across the land, so I refer you to #1-4.

It’s tough to explain, but after your first visit it will be easy to find. (The map helps a lot)

1. Depart Oksu Station (Orange Line 3) through exit 4 (it will be hard to know it’s Exit 4 until you’re outside).
2. At the bottom of the stairs, cross the street to the left, then follow the sidewalk to the right toward the main street/intersection.
3. You’ll soon see a small green sign across the street pointing left (if you look really hard). That sign points the way (but don’t cross the street to get to the sign; stay on your side of the main road). FYI: the sign reads “31 Binggo dong-gil.”

(#2 & #3 are too detailed. Just take Exit 4 and turn left on the biggest road)

4. As you head up the sidewalk on the gentle incline, you’ll see the Yongsan Line Oksu Subway Station ahead of you across the street to your right.
5. After a block, you’ll pass the “iwant” apartments. Keep walking on the sidewalk up the gentle hill. You’re heading in the right direction.
6. As the sidewalk rises, it bends to the left and follows the main road for quite a ways. Don’t give up.
7. When you reach the PRUGIO construction site, you’ll know you’re getting close.
8. Take the first normal road to the left once you’ve passed Prugio. There is a small green road sign pointing left that reads “78 Goeuran-gil.” Follow this road as it passes more Prugio construction for a block or so.
9. Ahead, you’ll see a snack shop. Above it on the corner is the first sign for the climbing gym (see picture). And another green road sign points the way to the right with “Goeuran 1(il)-gil.” Turn right and proceed.
10. In less than a block you’ll see the green door on the left side of the street that leads down to the gym (see picture). The walk from Oksu to the gym takes roughly 10 minutes. Roughly.
11. Enter said door and enjoy.

Comment added by curious_j on January 22nd, 2008
In 2005 I wrote about Son Jung-jun here:


Comment added by dangerflower on April 17th, 2009
Son Jung-jun's Sport Climbing Institute (손정준 스포즈클라이밍 연구소) will be re-opening at a new location as of May 6th, 2009.

To get to the new gym, go to Oksu Station (orange line #3 and dark blue central line) and go out exit 7. Walk straight for about 50m. You will pass a church called Yeongwang Kyohwae (영광교회) on your left. The new (and bigger and better, from the sounds of it!^^) climbing gym is close beside the church.

Comment added by dangerflower on May 13th, 2009
Okay, I just checked out the gym. It's about the same size as the old gym, and is a little awkward at the moment when it's busy, but once people get the hang of taking turns doing laps on all of the walls with others sitting around, it should get better.
It's open from 1000h - 2230h, Monday to Friday, but is closed on the weekend. (It will probably be open on Saturdays during the winter, I think.)
The one-day fee is 15,000 won (no, that's not a typo T.T) and the monthly fee is 80,000 won.

Comment added by rayadoman on August 22nd, 2011
My wife and I tried this gym out tonight. The gym is great. The walls are packed with grips and routes are clearly marked. The owner speaks some english and willing to help you learn. Lots of people were there. Had a great time.

Comment added by blacklotus on April 19th, 2013
This is among the only gyms in Asia that cleans its holds. Seriously, you will see holds in the shower room. So, forget about unexpectedly slipping off extremely polished or chalked holds. I can't say this is the best gym for getting strong, as there's no 45+ degree wall with small holds, but there are enough fingerboards here to compensate. SJJ is also a very keen route setter. Would be nice if the gym included marked boulders, but none for now. The gym is also located near an elementary school with basically the world's best monkey bars: super for core & lock-off training.

Comment added by blacklotus on May 3rd, 2013
Too busy on weekday nights. Waiting for several minutes to get on the wall is not training. I'm going elsewhere.

From conversation I overheard, the gym is expanding.

Comment added by Dustin on November 17th, 2013
I've been climbing at this gym for the past few months. It has expanded as of about August 2013. Here is some additional information about the place.

In the main room downstairs, they knocked out a wall and took out the office to open the place up. There is now a lot more ceiling stuff and it is much more open. They also added a room on the floor above. This second room is about half the size of downstairs and is mostly for beginners.

This gym gets EXTREMELY crowded on weekday nights. I would very strongly recommend avoiding this place after 6 or 7pm on any weeknight. Also, there are a lot of kids here almost every evening now. Mostly they stay upstairs, but just something to consider.

The prices have also increased:

15,000 for a one day pass
90,000 for a month

I can confirm that the main routes downstairs are changed about every month or so.

The people here are very nice, it is just so crowded most nights that it can be a little frustrating.

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