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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas > Search Results

Seunim Bawi Submitted on December 4th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jeonju
Park: Daedunsan Park Rating: 5.10 - 5.10 Style: Sport
Views: 3526 Photos: 3 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 2 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
A 10a and 10b face and a bolted 10? crack (offwidth to almost chimney!). 15m, 7 bolts (plus anchors) max. Sometimes harsh (granite?) and some decent runout make the crack a very sporty crack and a bold lead for it's grade. Pretty vertical.
Max bolts, 6; typical triangle with rope/wire running through one good and one somewhat corroded bolts. A rope to assist a very steep, dodgy looking "walk off" to the right (we lowered, left a clippable rap ring).


Directions
Busses run from Jeonju, Gunsan, Iksan (infrequently) and Daejeon directly to Daedunsan. From Jeonju or Daejeon, it's a straight shot on road 17. The quickest way to the climbs is to backtrack away from the main entrance (restaurants, etc) from the parking lot/bus stop until you see the small entrance. If you drive, there are pullouts right by this entrance. Head up the trail This small pinnacle is in the middle of the trail is up and right from Wimungongyeon Rock past the cave/observatory turn-off. There is a green memorial plaque attached to the rock (from the Jeonju Rock Society).


Safety Concerns
The bolts were a mixed lot, even within a given climb. Some new and solid looking, some pretty corroded. None were as bad as the one clipped to the rock on the ground, which looks about to give and you can't really clip the hanger, but don't let that one scare you. Only did the crack, but scoped the face from top and bottom. Anchor was typical triangle with rope/wire running through one good and one somewhat coroded bolts. There is a sort-of walk off right with a fixed rope to hand over hand. We considered but skipped this option.

There is a sign that says climbing in the park is closed, but I contacted the Wansan-gun park management and they had a staffer from Mountain magazine contact me and assure me that climbing is legal in the park. You'll see Koreans climbing and Mountain Magazine featured the park last month! (if you want me to forward the e-mail, you can PM me).


Gear to Bring
10 draws and 50m will do any of the few routes on this rock. A dozen draws, 60 m rope or two and best yet, gear, would allow you to explore the many other climbing areas in the park.


Additional Comments
The park is in 3 provinces, but all the climbing is in Jeollabuk-do! Food and drink is available along the main trails (further from the climbing)and at the mountain hut, when it's open. Camping is available nearby and there is a portalet (fairly clean) and wells for water (lots of tadpoles; might be drinkable with a filter). (There's also a campground just past the parking lot in the main entrance of the park). It's an easy enough day trip from any nearby city. If you're driving, just past the small entrance is a gas station with some shops, including coffee-mania, where you can get espresso drinks.





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