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Kokkiri Bawi Submitted on November 13th, 2005 by skinsk Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollanam-Do City: Mokpo
Park: n/a Rating: 5.9 - 5.11 Style: Sport
Views: 5603 Photos: 20 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 1 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
Sedimentary conglomerate, slab to vertical, with some overhanging starts toward the left. One thin crack (11 c) on an otherwise pebbly face with small often not-super positive holds. Most of the routes have 1-2-3 finger pockets here and there. There's one good edge (10a) and a few nice heucos (one you can sit in!), one huge niche with a route that climbs out the side of it (11c) and several 10s and 11s with overhanging sequency starts. Good face climbing pretty unique for Korea that will test your balance, creativity and footwork without leaving you pumped. 11 to 20m. There is a plaque with an etched topo of the 16 routes. The grades, from 5.9 to 11c seemed inflated, as 5 of us all had personal "bests" here on our first 2-day visit.


Directions
It's on the backside of Yudalsan, along the R branch of the road going past the little mermaid statue, the Maritime University. . .heading E. It's a >W3,000 taxi ride from the train station (or a 45 minute walk?). . . tell the taxi driver Omindongsan 오민동산 (it's about 100m further, near a chicken restaurant, 오민동산 촌닭, with a photo of chickens on the sign). There are several paths leading up-- the correct one begins with a table-top crossing the drain. Head up, between farms and small homes, past a (nasty looking) well on your right, up into the wooded area. Just as the woods begins, a trail branches off to your left. You can see the rock the whole way from the road, so it's hard to get lost.


Safety Concerns
Some loose rock/holds/pebbles (mostly left) and some dirty, muddy, mossy routes (right). A few old chopped bolts visible, but all bolts on routes that we did were solid, new and reinforced with epoxy. Every part of the anchors, however, seemed corroded (some were bolted way back on the rock and difficult to see, with only the hook hanging over the edge). Several of the large utility hooks had rust, hard to open/shut gates, or no gate at all. Some routes had serious run-out with decking potential! Analyse the route from the ground. The climbing is mostly delicate pebbly face climbing, and all routes have a bit of this. And I'll repeat, some loose holds pulled out.
The ground is uneven and the rocky steps that lead down are dodgy.

And this will sound odd, but everyone said worth a mention: there are swarms of biting ladybugs with sharp little stings.


Gear to Bring
5 bolts max on any route, so with 2 for the anchor and a spare (to extend?) 8 draws and a 50 meter rope will suffice.


Additional Comments
Only the chicken restaurants and some instant coffee machines in the immediate vicinity. Bring lots of water as it's in the sun. The views are breathtaking, overlooking the water, farms and small mountains. The appraoch is short, and there are few people, though the guy at the local climbing club said they come here frequently on weekends in good weather. It was amazingly warm in late fall, and despite my cautions, I'd definitely come back here, though it's clearly limited. For anyone nearby or passing through Mokpo, however, it's easy to get to and worth it.



Comment added by ricardo on November 14th, 2005
GPS: 34 47' 35.4", 126 22' 14"
Trail: head up, take a left when you see the well (at the 'T'). just *before* the woods head off main trail to your left for about 10m of off trail walking.

Comment added by Ricky on May 15th, 2006
All the anchors have been replaced.
I tried the crack...on top rope. The route's called pervert, when you climb it you realize why that's a fitting name.
Other notes:
Beware of "First Love".
And have a good spotter all the way to the first clip.

Comment added by drkhv7 on October 28th, 2008
If you're looking at the crag, on the far right there is a plaque with mostly legible writing/ratings for each route on the wall. Not too sure how reliable I thought they were, but def good to have a trusted spotter until you reach the first bolt.

Set-up a few topropes towards the end. A little precarious but def not too difficult. Its worth a visit if you're in Mokpo. A 10 minute hike from the road.



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