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Go Back   KOTR Climbing > Search Climbing Areas

Halmae Bawi Submitted on April 6th, 2004 by Eric Print
Type: Rock Climbs Province: Jeollabuk-Do City: Jeongeup
Park: n/a Rating: 5.9 - 5.13 Style: Sport
Views: 8792 Photos: 27 Photo(s) - Add Photos Maps: 3 Image(s) - Add Images

Description
There are about 2 dozen climbs on this protruding rock face. Most of the climbs are from 5.10 to 5.12. The rock is limestone and a good portion of it is overhanging. Most of the routes are less than 15 meters high with a few exceptions. Most of the rock is of good quality, but some climbs have some loose rock as well as the only multi-pitch climb.

In sum, pumpy, overhanging, juggy, limestone climbs similar to climbs in Thailand or, a little closer to home, Seonunsan.


Directions
From Jeongeup, head towards Seonunsan National Park on highway 22. Then you pass through the tiny town of Heung Deok. At the end of the town, turn right at the 'Y'. Head towards Gochang. Eventually you will pass a lake/reservoir on your left. Shortly after that hwy 22 takes a sharp turn to the right and heads towards Seounsan. Don't go right. Stay straight and after about 2km you will come to a bridge. Take a left BEFORE the bridge. Drive down that road about 500 meters and take a left at the Asan Garden rstaurant. The climbing wall is behind the restaurant and pond.


Safety Concerns
There are a few climbs that have some loose rock, but nothing significant. The one multi-pitch climb there (about 3 pitches) is full of loose rock and is dangerous for anyone climbing below. I don't recommend this climb because of the the loose rock and it is not aesthically pleasing or enjoyable.

There are no anchors to fix the belayer to if there is a big weight difference between the climber and the belayer.


Gear to Bring
A set of 10-12 draws and a 50 meter rope should get you to the top of all the climbs.


Additional Comments
There is a restaurant at the base of the wall that serves eel and soups among other things. There is also a toilet and water there. There is very little shade in the summer but if it rains you can still climb most of the routes because of the overhang. The thirty second hike-in is refreshing. Camping at the base of the rock is perfect, flat and quiet. Sundays, like most popular places, can get a little cramped due to the small number of climbs.



Comment added by antepater on April 15th, 2004
This place is excellent. you need a car, difficult to get to otherwise. Very crowded on weekends, especially in the warmer part of the year. Also you have to learn to deal with Korean ethics which can run the entire gambit from solid to absolutly shocking. I for one do not have a lot of trust in there saftey measures.

Comment added by antepater on May 14th, 2004
Here is some info on the lcal Youth Hostel for cheap accomodation on the temple grounds in Sununsa Park
The number of the youth hostel on the temple grounds. I beleive there is 24hr reception. 0677-561-3333, cell is 011-683-3561 website //members.tripod.co.kr/sonunsan

Comment added by skinsk on June 1st, 2005
Sorry, either my computer or I are unable to produce Korean text, so I can't give the names (at this time), but the grades for the routes at Halmaebawi are, left to right: 5.9/10.a/11.b/11a (shares anchor with)11d/ 10c/11a/12a (shares anchor with)12b/ Redland 11a/11b/12c (shares anchor with) 11c/11a (shares anchor with)11a/11b (saw) 11a/11a/11d(has two equally rated finishes, one sharing the anchor with the a to the left)/10c/11a/(same start)10c-11b

I've listed routes with English names and indicated routes that share anchors in the event you get lost/confused trying to count). All route info is from a Korean guidebook; I'll try to contact the author for permission to scan and post topos.

Comment added by Eric on June 1st, 2005
Here are the routes: http://www.koreaontherocks.com/user_images/91407e2347704ff.jpg

Comment added by kirbyf16 on August 22nd, 2005
For the nerds among us with GPS's...
N35 29 33.3 E126 37 13.9
is at the base of the wall.

Comment added by CHOI BAWI on September 12th, 2005
For those eager of you have who have always wanted to take leads at Halmabawi, but could just heave your way up the one or two 5.9's there, I have great news for you! Halmae Bawi has opened up five new moderate 5.7 - 5.9 routes in the shade and bit to the left of the main wall. Check it out and have fun~

Comment added by ricardo on September 26th, 2005
Be careful of the new routes; a bolt popped off (with rock) when someone was getting lowered.
I heard earlier in the day a baseball sized rock fell in the established area to the right and narrowly missed a spectators head.
Helmets advised for belayers, spectators stay back.

Comment added by skinsk on June 8th, 2006
The busses to Sununsan will stop at Asan Garden restaurant in front of Halmae Bawi if you hit the button (W1250 from Gochang). I will post the Go-chang Sununsan bus schedule under "navigational photos" for Soksal Bawi. There is a bus back to Gochang at about 7:15 from the bus stop about 15m east (towards Gochang) of Halmae Bawi.

Comment added by benruddy on June 25th, 2011
Just a note about the restaurant - it's gone. The whole road junction has been changed, and the restaurant must have been bulldozed. Bring plenty of water on hot days since there is no source nearby.

Comment added by drkhv7 on March 20th, 2013
This place can smell REALLY bad in late spring (2012) and gets overrun with insects (flies?).
Most climbs have labels (I've posted pics of them) to ID climb name and grade.
Very easy access from the road.

Comment added by djwhite_2002 on March 25th, 2013
New directions from Kunsan AB.

Take 21 to 15 S towards Mokpo. Exit at 22 After toll booth turn left. Stay on NEW 22 till after the tunnel. Turn right at first light after tunnel. Follow road around to left. Take left at intersection. This is 743. Follow 743 until T intersection. Turn right. Stay straight till you see climbing area on right. Maybe about 1 mile.

Comment added by thepriesthood on September 3rd, 2014
Google Map address: 290 Gyesan-ri, Asan-myeon
Kochang, Jeollabuk-do, South Korea
35.479019, 126.618361

Comment added by chersland on May 30th, 2016
There is an old metal sign on the wall that shows the grades of the older routes. Many of the older and newer routes also have a small sign on the bottom of the climb with name and grade.
Some of the grades are not the same on the small signs and the metal sign. To me, the few routes I tried seemed harder than the grade stated on the small signs, and the grade on the old metal sign seemed more appropriate.
Summary: don't blindly trust the small signs on each route, as they may underestimate the difficulty of the climb.



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