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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
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부산진구청소년문화의집 (Busanjin-gu Youth community center)
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It is located in the middle of mountain with a very nice skyscraper view of the center of Busan, but you can get up there by 30 minutes walk from nearest subway station. It has fairy small space like 3m high X 7m wide and also has a outdoor artificial wall approximately 10m high X 7m wide, which opens from March to October. Usually you'll be able to enjoy the whole gym alone like a private gym- I myself like this kind of surroundings the most!
Indoor gym hours are 09:00 to 18:00, closed every Monday. Open on weekends.
Free of charge all y... [Read More]
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회룡암 (hoelyongam) Valley Boulders
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Granite boulders and cliffs of varying height and angles. Problems range from one move wonders to highballs. The granite here is generally good, but there is the occasional loose hold or chossy boulder. The boulder field is pretty large and problems are in little clusters scattered throughout the area. You may end up hiking around a little within the little valley. A lot of problems could go down here, It just depends on where you look. But you could go to a different part of the valley each time you visit.... [Read More]
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Am Nam Gong Won (Gaw Buk Am)
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There are two layers of rock in this area. It changes about half way up the climb. The area is beside the ocean but they seem to take care of the bolts and anchors.... [Read More]
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Amnan Park, Shark Rock (상어암)
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multi-colored, multi-layered conglomerate, but pretty solid and with pretty good friction. The routes are vertical to overhanging, with interesting moves and a beautiful location on the sea. Twenty to 23 meters high on the main face, there are two shorter (7m) routes on the smaller rock opposite, including the classic photo-op that graces the Kim Yong-gi guidebook to the southern half of the country.... [Read More]
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Amnan Park, Whale Rock (고래암)
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There are only 6 (first pitches) routes on this rock, from 10a-11a, all about 17 meters. A fixed line connects the anchors, so if you did one, you could top-rope the others. There are 3 2nd pitches, but plenty of loose rock and extremely steep grades makes it unwise to try them. The developers since regret bolting these, and warn people not to try them. The base is a weird concrete-like rock, and the rest is more of the multi-layered conglomerate seen throughout the park!
The bottom boast some interesting and varies routes, though.... [Read More]
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Bu Chae Bawi
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Near Dae Ryuk Bong in Busan. In fact, the directions are almost the same, save for a few minor details. The rock is granite, and there are two sides to the rock, one is the North Wall, and one is the South wall. 27 routes in all, which range from easy 5.8 to a 5.12a. Had I not purchased the Rock Climbing Guide (in Korean), I never knew this gem would have existed. It's face climbing with some cracks to jam your fists. The bolts are pretty new, but I have found some ancient ones from years gone by. There is also a great bouldering area during th... [Read More]
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Busan Climbing Center
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It doesn't look like much from the outside-- easier to miss than to find, almost-- but it's a pretty nice place, with friendly people. It's long and narrow, with walls of varing steepness.
1 month is W60,000 (there are many membership options that bring down the price--see photo of options list). Once you join, you have access to the gym anytime.
Most weekends or at least Sunday they go to nearby outdoor climbing areas. They offer lessons in various climbing disciplines. Opened in 1999 by Pak Jeong-yong 010-4593-4339 (Korean)... [Read More]
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Busan Sport Climbing Center
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Amazing new gym (opened 3/2008) in downtown Busan. It's attached to a climbing school and Busan Mountaineering research center. Hot showers, conference rooms, lots of walls with new holds, exercise machines, extensive library. . . W40,000/month (less for students and cheaper if you pay for several months in advance) It's open Monday-Sat, 10-10.... [Read More]
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Cable Car
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Standard Busan Granite. Some of the largest free standing boulders in the area are here. Quality varies from bomber to choss depending on where you go. Landings also range from perfect to deadly, and heights range from low ball, to higball / solo.... [Read More]
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