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KOTR is looking for a new owner. Are you a developer, a climber and have plans to stay in Korea for a while? If so, email me at [email protected]
의암암장 - Eui Am Am Jang
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Twenty-two routes from the ground. four of which have second pitches. This is weird, quartz-like rock. Quite polished, but with sharp edges. Loads of features, but a lot of the holds are negative, so takes some working out.
This place was bolted in late 2008, so the bolts and anchors are still shiny and new. None of the routes are over 30m.... [Read More]
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Chuncheon Artificial Climbing Wall
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15m high by 12m wide, this wall was built in early 1997 and seems a bit dated. It's easy enough to find, steep enough for a good workout (holds are a little old and slick) and close to amenities. Floodlights on top at night do little to illuminate the wall (though they make it easy to find). Might be possible to climb up the ladder/scaffolding on back and throw a toprope.
It's a municipal wall, run by Chuncheon Climbers, the local club.... [Read More]
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Chuncle Ridge - 춘클릿지
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Seven pitch ridge with beautiful views over Eui-am lake and dam. Bolted by Chuncheon Climbers in 2008. If you take the original route it's fairly easy: 5.9 - 10b. A couple of pitches have alternative, tougher routes in the 11s.
Start:
50m walk up from the route map at the road. Ignore the grades on the sign. It was put up by the council, who haven't a clue about the climb.
Pitch 1:
5.9 - 30m - 5 Bolts.
Easy face onto ridge.
Pitch 2:
5.10a - 30m - 2 Bolts.
From the anchor, climb past the tree directly in front of you for about 5m. ... [Read More]
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Gongji Stream Bouldering Walls
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If you enjoy an early morning (or evening) stroll along the stream-side bike and pedestrian paths that seem so ubiquitous in Korean cities these days, don't forget your climbing shoes when in Chuncheon. Watch the city wake up. . . and get your exercise at the fitness parks/badminton courts, etc that line the stream. In Seoksa-dong near Huseok Street (before the bridge) you'll come across two small bouldering walls side by side. Lot's of holds, most decent . . . don't write it off as a children's wall. Limit your "on" holds, try to move continuo... [Read More]
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Gugok Pokpo
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The length of the fall is roughly just over 60M. The ice is typically very good because the fall is hidden from the sun all day round. There are fixed static abseil lines at the top and to the left, a few bolted anchors and a few trees at the top. Roughly five route lines can be climbed without things getting too hectic.
WI 3~4 depending on the ice and traffic throughout the season.... [Read More]
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Hwacheon Ice Park
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Climb ice north of the 38th parallel! 60m of vertical ice created by pumping water from the river. A 30m high section on the climber's left. There is a stairway to the top for creating top rope anchors. Pretty far from Seoul so it is a lot less crowded than Pandae. Cool roadblocks on the drive there all set to blow in the event of an invasion.... [Read More]
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Songam Sports Town - 송암
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Add photos of Songam Sports Town - 송암
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There are three walls here:
1. The Lead Wall. Used for the World Championships in 2010. 20m wide and 15m high. Tons of routes. The tough routes all have fixed draws.
2. Speed Wall. Two speed routes and two beginners' routes. Top access is a problem, unless you have a cherry picker or humongous balls.
3. Bouldering Wall. Loads of bouldering problems. All sheltered under a nice route. Pads are left there all the time.... [Read More]
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Yonghwasan
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Beautiful and remote setting in Northern Kangwondo. . . not so far from the North Korean border. . .Nice granite; lots of friction but some loose bits and hollow sounding flakes.
Saenam and Jangsu Bawis (the main formations) offer 16 routes up to 5 pitches from 5.7 (easiest P1 is 5.8) to 5.12; also some aid. There's a stellar 11b roof on the right 3 pitches up!! (Almost worth it to come for this; you could easily rap to the start from the hiking trail that goes around to the summit. Wicked exposure and views. Routes to 130 meters.
Routes... [Read More]
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