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Mokpo Climbing Club
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Closed weekends.
Small city gym, close knit-- they go on lots of trips, train hard (including annual climbing school) and are open to foreigners, though English is not spoken. They've had several foreign members in the past. Membership is subsidized and reasonable.
One story gym (4th floor) with steep walls (some with jugs) and a ceiling area with very high mats!... [Read More]
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Mudeung Climbing Gym
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The gym is run by Yeun, Jong Ho.
He relocated the gym and has added quite a few nice features.
*Price is 50,000 W a month--Or 5,000 W a day.
*The gym is 330 square meters
*There are two big rooms for climbing.
*The first space has two faces; one with a 115 degree face and another with a 125 degree for higher grades
*The second room has 4 faces; 85 degrees, 90 degrees, 95 degrees, and 105 degrees for beginners and kids.
*Both rooms are 5 meters high and 10 meters wide.
*You can rope climb with 3 point clips and solid anchors... [Read More]
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Saeinbong
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Saeinbong, easily accessed from the Jeungshimsa entrance of Mudeungsan Provincial Park on the western edge of Gwangju, boasts two main climbing cliffs. Facing Yaksasa (temple)is Yaksa Amjang, and on the opposite side of the peak is the main wall referred to as Saeinbong.
To lead at Saeinbong, you must first rappel from the top-- there is a sturdy rap ring on the left (facing out), but the routes here are 40 meters and YOU WILL NEED 2 ROPES or to fix a single line!!--and walk along the path below (you could rap from any anchor at the top, but... [Read More]
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Sangmu Artificial Climbing Wall
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Behemoth, 14-15 meters high, with 100-180 degree angles! on the Western side of Samgmu Citizen's Park. Not for the weak!
Open from 9-9 March through October, 9-5 Novermber through Feb. Fixed draws.
It's often used for comps, so there may be limited routes. Nothing for beginners but bouldering across the base.... [Read More]
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Seokmunsan
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The vertical (give or take) faces, corners, roofs with numerous crack systems. . . comprising Seokmun Amjang (climbing wall) rise 8-20 meters from the small, but scenic Seokmunsan (163.3m), affording several easily protected (and several less-easily protected!) trad climbs or TRs. There are some old pitons/bolts (many rusting)-- of varying quality, but also plenty of natural pro. Since the best (by far) approach is up the back and around, I'd recommend setting up a top anchor and rapping the intended route to scope first!... [Read More]
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Seonbi Bawi
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Faces! (80-120 degrees) routes with a lot of (mostly bolted and/or pitoned) cracks, aretes, corners, small roofs. . . in the northern tip of Mudeungsan, the park just east of Gwangju.
There are 32 routes, but the easiest are 5.10a. The routes are stout-- nothing really for beginners. 7-34 meters in length; one pitch. Pro varies from newish to pretty old rusting pitons. . . my partner pulled an anchor apart (we didn't weight it, thankfully, but the 3 thin wires had frayed all the way through) but we didn't remove it from the one bolt boulder... [Read More]
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Wolchulsan
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Granite slabs, faces and overhangs. There are 29 listed routes of up to 3 pitches, some with slight variations. There are no grades listed, but range from easy decently bolted slabs to overhanging cracks and aid. Fixed pro is a mixed bag. . . shiny new bolts, rusty old bolts, old pitons, fixed cams, slings. . . many cracks require and others take gear of pretty much all sizes! Many routes have beefy eye-bolts cemented in at the belay/rap stations.
The climbing is on Maebong (매봉), Sirubong (시루봉), Sajabong (... [Read More]
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Yeongam Municipal Rock Climbing Stadium
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16 meters high with ceiling routes that overhang 12 meters! 2 adjacent outdoor walls up the side of the building for competitions. The office behind the main building was empty, but the "stadium" was open. . . huge, with routes for every ability and every angle. Restrooms, lockers, showers, one weight bench, one belt massage machine and a drink vending machine. Ample parking and bleachers/viewing areas in and outside. Camping and facilities nearby.... [Read More]
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Yeosu Red Cross Climbing Wall
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Opened in 1992, this is a small, old-style utilitarian wall, 5.4X9 meters, peeling paint, etc. It's located behind the red cross building in Yeosu, and generally used by the local climbing clubs for their training (sponsored by the local provincial climbing guild). It can be reserved, and seasonally/weather permitting there is open climbing on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Fridays from 6-10.... [Read More]
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Yongseo Pokpo
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One of the most beautiful and quiet places I have been in Korea. Very little traffic (local?) and very off the beaten path! You stand in an ampitheatre around a very high falls (50m?), surrounded by steep bluffs on 3 sides. The rock is multicolored, the landscape lush. Slab (slight), vertical, roofs, overhangs, faces, (bolted) cracks. . . you'll bust out all your moves here! 7-26 meters (though there are multipitch climbs that will get you higher, and if you aspire to do them 2 ropes might be nice for a quick rappel). Bolts seemed solid, though... [Read More]
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